well i dont know how they did a diagnostic test and then tell you they need more tests done to see if cylinder is ***** up.
most likely it is.. and i would rather just get a brand new engine if im gonna pay 700- 800 dollars to fix the gasket or w.e .i think dats too much first of all and i deffinately dont think thats gonna repair ur overheating problems. if ur cylinder is messed up and fluid went into it already ur engine is DONE!
whats the yr, make and model of ur car? and what engine does it had originally

 

It is a 2002 Civic EX. I believe that has a VTEC 1.7L

 

o man ..damn a 2002 , with those kind of problems..
well i dont know what to tell you. have you taken it to do the other tests they said they were gonna do on the car??
cusz i mean, an engine for that car is gonna be at LEASt 2000

 

I took it to an independent Honda Shop here on Long Island. They can't replicate the problem and have no idea. He said the car runs perfectly. They presented me with two options:

1. Do a head gasket job, mill the head, etc $700-800 with no guarantee that is what is wrong.

2. Remove the thermostat and have me drive it around to see if that is what is wrong.

I have replaced this thermostat once this past winter and once again in June. He thought that when I rev the engine (to make the temp go down) it might force the gate open and let the car cool itself.

Should I just say screw it and do the head job or go with the cheap possible solution first?

 

Given that the problem will not replicate now it seems unlikely that you have a mechanical failure such as warped head, water pump, or even headgasket, as I have not seen them 'heal' themselves after a time of non-operation but there is always a first. Question: When you were replacing the thermostats, were you using genuine Honda replacements or AutoBone aftermarket junk or something like that? In addition, at the risk of repeating myself and belaboring this point, are you sure you evacuated all of the air after these changes? What I am wondering now is if the last bit of air has been belched after all of these hands and diagnosticians have had a chance to look at the car. It seems unlikely that Honda would have misdiagnosed an air bubble, but again, there are always firsts. This problem potentially could point to a ‘lazy’ thermostat that may be opening/closing intermittently and differently depending on who-knows-what. I had this problem in my Toyota pickup truck once; it was a bear to diagnose. I know that you have been thinking about new engines and cars, and I know your frustration level has to be maxed out by now, but perseverance will pay off and at least you will not bail out on this car unnecessarily without understanding firstly what the root cause of the problem is. This latest mechanic sounds as though he wants to do sound troubleshooting first before throwing parts at the problem. That approach is always best. I would suggest driving the car with the thermostat in for a while, just to be certain that you can replicate the problem at all. It may have been air all along….if not, you can take the thermostat out and try that approach. Very little time/money will be wasted with this approach. Please post the findings, even if you end up with a new car so that we will know what happened.

Good luck, and keep hunting,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

 

I picked up the car yesterday sans thermostat. The shop is about 20 minutes from home, the temperature stayed just below 1/4 most of the ride. When I got home it rose to the usual operating temperature (between 1/4 and 1/2). Kinda sucks having no/crappy heat, but maybe this will clue us in on something.

I remembered something else. This winter I was having issues with the heat. When the engine wasn't revving the heat would go cold. I took it to my shop and they said that the thermostat housing was cracked. They changed it, along with the thermostat (Honda). When June came and the car overheated, they replaced the thermostat with a non-Honda one.

Is that significant? Seems odd that I would have no heat when in traffic, and the car would overheat when in traffic and both would be remedied by revving the engine...

 

Just drove to work (25 min). The temperature, again, stayed low while I was traveling and went up to normal operating when the car was at lights or parked. I popped the hood when I got to my office and the temp held at normal temperature but the fans were not on. I also could smell coolant and the reservoir was full to the top. I didn't see any coolant leaking, however.

 

This sounds about right for driving with no thermostat. The fan should cycle on and off at lights, but it doesn't need to run for very long to keep the temperature down.

You need a thermostat so the engine warms up to be able to deliver hot coolant to the heater. Flushing your heater core might also improve the heater performance.

 

No overheating but there is still coolant around the engine bay after a 20 min drive (reservoir level rises near top). What could cause it to rise like that? I'm wondering if it constantly loses fluid this way until it gets low enough to make the car overheat. Then, I bring it to the shop and they top it off....repeat.

 

One possible explanation for an abnormal rise in coolant level in the reservoir is a faulty radiator cap.

By the way, note that the discussion in this thread now seems to have come full circle.