OK well i needed to replace the rear struts and springs. Well pulled it in the garage and started looking at it and everything looked ok. Well both lower strut bolts broke off at the heads. So i just took a torch and cut em off as i have all new stuff. Couldnt get the bolt out of the guide tube in the bushing in the LCA. So i came home looked on the net and there was a post on another forum and about 12 people had the same problem and they had to just take the whole LCA off and press em in/out,or buy new lca's. So when taking these bolts off 2 more broke heads. Makes 4out of the 6 that were broke. And of course they had to be the ones up by the gas tank. One of my LCA's were bent so im just going to buy new ones. There is a link with a set that i think are decent. Could anyone give me some feedback? Also upon looking both trailing arm bushings are shot..maybe why i always felt i was driving on ice and pulling to the right with the bent lca. Anyone ever replaced that bushing? Or should i just put the Lca's and struts back on and just take it somewhere to get it done? Any feedback would be great.


Also on the factory springs 2 are taller than the other 2. Which ones goes where?

http://www.jdmups.com/Suspension/con...ontrolarm1.htm or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...52706&rd=1

 

You know, I gonna do a RACTIVE coilover / KYB AGX shock set and I checked all my bolts and they came loose < 100 ft lbs according to my Craftman Digital Torque Wrench. I'm lucky, my car is a 100% 9 year old Texas car with absolutely no rust or corrosion so no frozen bolts anywhere!

Did you use a torque wrench or impact wrench that broke off the bolts?

If you were me I couldn't go any further and would have a shop do it. If you do that tell us how much it costs!

Next time you encounter frozen / hard to remove bolts given them a shot of PB Blaster loosening penetrant - this loosened all my hard to loosen bolts [LCA & Calipers].

 

Lol you not think i tried heating and letting pb blaster soak in? I was just using a 1/2 drive ratchet with no breaker bar, and they broke off there. I had lowering springs on there and i am puting new struts and the factory springs back on there.

 

the Blox LCA's are good, i have them. you can probably find them a little cheaperfrom a vendor on honda-tech but notby much.as for the one thats on ebay, i dont trust it. they show a picture of Megan Racing LCA's, which the real ones arnt bad, but no where in their description does it mention anything about Megan Racing, kinda sketchy if u ask me.

go with the Blox LCA's, get some new bolts and call it a day. it'll be cheaper then having a shop do the work or press out/install new bushings on the old LCA's.

 

Well i work in a machines shop so i could just press them out...but the price for 6 bushings is almost the price of a set of new lca's. Plus my passenger side lca is bent pretty good and i needed new ones anyway. Its i dont think i can do the trailing arm bushings with out the special tool.

 

The lowering spring were too harsh? What brand did you have?

Too expensive to press in bushings? - Well, I'm not gonna bother with an Energy Suspension upgrade!

 

No actually the ride was just as good as stock just dont run my rims anymore. I had gold-line coil springs, they were decent springs for the money

 

People ditch my RACTIVES and say they're junk but some who actually have them say they're ok.

I've never heard of Gold Line - how much did they cost?

Where do you live that you get frozen bolts? Maybe everyone who lives in the Rust Belt gets this?

 

I live in West virginia. The trailing arm bushings are badly ripped you can see big tears in them. I have previous posts about the constant pulling to the right. I hope new lca's and trailing arm bushings plus all new struts and factory springs this thing should drive like a top