We use viper alarms, which are some of the best alarms out there. And the point of a starter kill is so that if someone tries to start the car with the alarm active, it will cut the starter wire and set off the alarm so that someone can not start the car.

Just think about the circuit. The relay has 4 connections. 85 - ground when alarm is active, 86 - ignition input, 30 - one side of the starter wire, and 87A - other side of starter wire. A relay sits at rest with 30 and 87A connected. So when there is no power across 85 and 86 (the coil), 30 and 87A are connected. So if you disconnect the alarm or pull the fuse, there is no physical way that the relay can be powered because it is impossible for 85 to receive the ground from the alarm. So with the alarm disconnected, the starter wires will ALWAYS be connected together, and the car should be able to start just fine.

This is the last thing i will say on this subject. If you don't believe me then thats your problem. But this is the proof. If you don't understand relays or circuits well enough to understand this then sorry that is again not my problem.

and to clic, hope this info helps you get your situation resolved.

 

i would just look under the dash for the black heavy gauge wire with white stripe and look for a part of it that is cut and one wire goes to the alarm and other to the ignition... then just cut that wire reconect it solid and crimp it tight.
OR if you dont want to cut any wires right now i got a even simplier way for you! put the cars ignition to the run position, then pop the hood, and with a small wire a few inches long or so simple look at the starter and pull the small wire off the terminal, and simply jump that terminal ON THE STARTER... with the larger battery wire on the starter and that will engage the starter and start the vehicle. as long as your keys in the run position that is
then take it to a alarm installer place and have them either replace the alarm system OR pay them to remove the alarm, or at least make it so you can start it yourself with the key

civics are easy to steal which is why start kills just dont work!!!! the starter is right ontop of the tranny in easy reach to just jump it over. thats why i prefered a fuel pump kill switch rather than starter kill on my old civics!
now with my truck im not worried since the trucks starter is tucked up under th etruck tight so it cannt be as easily jumped

 

Jumping the starter will also prove that the battery and starter are OK -- maybe it's not the alarm, and other reasons for not starting should be considered. Make absolutely sure the car is in park (or neutral if manual), the brakes are set, and don't stand in front of the car in case it tries to move anyway. I'd do the first attempt with the key off so it won't actually start, it will just crank to see that the starter works.

 

i know its not a thing to do all the time... but its a way he can get it to a alarm shop to get the wiring removed right now IF he is not confident in his wiring skills

if its just the alarm not working they can always just rewire the starter wire like stock for now, and later on when moneys good enough to buy a new alarm system then you can get it swapped out.

 

It's done. Defective unreliable alarm system is now uninstalled and on fire. That b*$tard system should not have messed with me on my day off. Rewired the old wires together and the car turns on everytime! What a concept

 

The PO butchered up the alarm, and I want to remove it. So I traced back all the wires from the alarm connectors, and either clipped them off if they just tapped into another OE wire, and reconnected anything that was cut. Starter won't engage. Checked all the usual suspects...the relay just isn't sending juice to the solenoid. Any suggestions?

 

I think the 2002 had a stock alarm / starter kill system. So after removing the aftermarket alarm you'll need to either restore or bypass the stock one. A schematic of the car would be very useful, you can download them see the sticky posts at the top of the forum.