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reving up and down plus dies

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #11  
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which color is the output wire on those and how many ohms is that i use
 
Old Sep 15, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #12  
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The center wire of the TPS sensor is the output. Set meter for DC volts. Push the red meter probe into the back of the hole for the center wire, with the sensor plugged in. Put the black meter probe on engine ground. Turn the key on but don't start. Observe voltage as you move the throttle lever by hand. If it doesn't come to 0.4 volts with throttle closed, loosen the screws holding the sensor on and rotate the sensor relative to the throttle body.
 
Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:42 AM
  #13  
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I cant rotate the tps its riveted in the throtle body
 
Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:54 AM
  #14  
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That is one that has not been replaced separate from the throttle body. The factory breakaway screws are still in place.

The important part is, does it pass the voltage test?
 
Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #15  
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revving could be 1 of 2 things
1) vacuum leak (basically an air leak letting more air into the intake manifold from somewhere other than the throttle body)
2) air in the coolant

the d16z6 i thought had a bleeder screw. my d16y8 doesn't, so I swapped that part with one from the old motor. otherwise, with your engine fully cooled, start your car and take your rad cap off. squeeze the upper hose, sometimes you'll see an air bubble. constantly add coolant and squeeze random rad hoses until you're satisfied.

but replacing the coolant outlet port on the front of the block with one from an earlier D-Series motor makes life a lot easier.

I thought my TPS was bad so I replaced it and still had the same issue. ended up being a combination of bad spark plugs and air seeping into my coolant.
 
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
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It looks like I have a bleeder on it but the bleeder is not there its just a hole
Checked volts on tps and passes that part
 
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #17  
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For a quick check, park the car on level ground and wait until the engine is completely cold. Then open the radiator cap. The radiator must be absolutely full to the top. If it is not you have to bleed the air out.
 
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #18  
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the rad is completly i have been trying to figure this out for about 3 months and no one has got it right yet ive asked 50 different people this is just crazyi just wish the car ran good again
 
Old Sep 17, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #19  
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Let's review. Do you still have CEL on; with codes for MAP and TPS?
 
Old Sep 18, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #20  
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A map not a tps and have one for iat sensor
 



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