I have a 95' Honda Civic EX. I installed a new throttle body gasket. Immediately after I had a fluctuating idle from 1000 to 1700. I drove it like this for a week or so and the sluggish behavior started occurring slowly. I noticed that the gasket (not OEM) was blocking a air hole on the throttle body. I replaced it with one that i bought directly from Honda and the flucuating idle was fixed. But the sluggish behavior is still present when I accelerate (idles PERFECT) and seems to be getting worse.If i rev the engine in neutral it does the same thing. but if I feather the RPMS up it wont do it. When driving, If i accelerate very slow it will not do it as badly. Things that have been don to try and fix it--

I did get a CEL but it went away after i turned the car off. I checked for codes and I got 3,7,and 9 Which are MAP sensor, TPS, and cylinder sensor??? The MAP and TPS are there because I swapped throttle bodies and had to unplug them but not sure what or why on the cylinder sensor????

-Checked ignition timing--GOOD
-Checked for vacuum leaks--NONE
-Coolant level perfect--Just had it flushed
-Swapped out throttle bodies--NO CHANGE

Please help, I had no problems with my car till this whole gasket problem. Im on the verge of dropping it off at the junk yard!!!

 

Is the CEL on?

Inspect the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Replace if necessary. If they are in excellent condition, then try replacing the fuel filter.

 

I did get a CEL but it went away, and all that stuff is new. I have only had this car for about 2 months, so i don't know its history but the fuels filter "looks" brand new. Its all glossy and clean, but looks can be deceiving. will replace fuel filter tomorrow.

 

Also its back firing a little bit when I rev it.

 

Pulled codes 3,7,9, and 14. I think i have 3 and 7 cause I swapped the throttle body. I did unplug the IAVC at one point so thats probably why i got 14 the one i dont get is 9, the cylinder sensor....could this be my problem?

 

Those are three very important codes. Reset the ECU by removing the 7.5A Back Up fuse under the hood for a few minutes and then reinsert. Next drive or run the car. If the CEL again turns on, leave the engine running and pull the CEL codes again. Post those codes.

Back firing may indicate a problem with the ignition timing. Did you check the ignition timing with a timing gun and the service connector jumped (same as pulling CEL codes)? What mark on the crank pulley did the pointer align with?

 

Ok I just cleared codes, drove it for about 3 miles...No CEL. No codes. still same problem. I did the timing with a timing gun per step by step from the Haynes manual. I used the single white tick mark.

 

Here's your problem. The ignition timing is set to the red mark (middle in group of three marks) not the lone white TDC1 mark on the crank pulley.

 

HOLY CRAP! Be back in 10 min im going to time it the correct way!!

 

OK..well its running a little better. I can actually accelerate up to speed. But its still backfiring with pedal to the floor, bogging down especialy in 1st and 2nd. and its still bucking a lot in 1st and 2nd.???? When I put the pedal to the floor it bogs down and makes a loud bellowing then will backfire. No CEL tho