as for getting your car up far enough to work on thoes parts, i agree with mxs.. but if you did wanna get all 4 corners up, you have some options.. one thing a buddy of mine did was to just get 4 ramps, (his car wasnt lowered, so getting them under the rear tires wasnt a major chore) the other option(and you gotta be carefull with this one) would be to drive the front end up on some ramps, and the jack up the rear and put it on jackstands... and yes you absolutely must use jackstands, you cant just use the jack, its just not safe, and a jack can bleed down over time.... not to mention that by using jackstands the car will have less potential to wanna roll off the ramps, where if its just on a jack, and the jack is one of thoes little bottle jacks, or has wheels, there is the possibility that if could roll of the ramps.. and i think that i can safely say thatnone of us want you to get hurt...

 

u dont need the whole car up off the ground to do this, it'll waist time and prolly end up being a bigger pain. just get the front up on ramps or jackstands and u'llbefine.i suggest buying new bolts for the cat/header and use a long breaker bar and just break the bolts if u cant get them off. u dont need to take the whole exhaust system off, just the header and cat. u can install the shifter without removing the cat but its a hugepain and u'll mess up ur knuckles. wether u take ur cat offor leave it, unbolt the shift linkage from the tranny, it'll make the job 10x easier, unbolting it is simple and putting it back is simple..

 

Yea, I'll just put the front up on ramps.... The only good leverage I know of to jack it up to put jackstands on, is behind the two front tires so.... Thanks for the input project5k.

If I can't get the bolts off the manifold to cat-converter, after putting rust remover spray on. Are there any other options with limited tools?

Oh, also is there a way to check if the cat-converter is bad (theCEL light came on after I used seafoam through the vac line, after I disconnected the battery it went off and hasn't come on since though. That was about 3 weeks ago)and/or an o2 sensor?

I might also get a new cat-converter, If I'm getting under it, and getting all this done. Minus well go for a complete overhaul. Should I just go with a replacement from honda, or go with a high-flow? I don't want to get onewhere welding or cutting is invloved.You know one that will bolt right on.

 

I'm looking around for a Megan Raceing header, part # MR-SSH-D16 I believe. I found a few sites with good prices, istoreparts.com and ebay. But for shippingI'm worried if it getsdamaged, they say either unreturnable or refundable, or only if inspected upon delivery befor signature.

Anyone know a good reliable site to get a megan raceing header with good shipping policies at a good price?
Thanks.

Nah, I think I'll stick with the cat-converter I got on there for now.....

 

yes...... if either of these are bad, your car will tell you by turning on the check engine light....... but if you reset it without reading the code you won't know why it came on...

 

Wouldn't it come on again though(CEL light) if something was wrong with my car? After reseting it, it's been over 3 weeks now.

 

it could come on again eventually, some of the readiness tests may take weeks to complete. If it comes on again, don't just disconnect the battery, find out what code it is giving you

 

alright, how do I check the code if it comes back? don't you need an expensive piece of equipment to do that?