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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 05:52 AM
  #11  
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Ok...I have another quick question. When my mechanic friend was removing everything there was a yellow wire with a green stripe on it that he couldn't find a connector to unplug so he clipped it and spliced it back together when he put everything back together. The wire is under the distributor...runs straight from the block to the wiring harness. Any idea what this wire is and it's function??
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 06:06 AM
  #12  
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The Yel/Grn wire likely attaches to the coolant temperature sending unit for dash temp gauge.
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #13  
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OK...as far as timing and stuff...wouldn't the idle be rough...or seem like the car is mis-firing on acceleration? The idle is fine and it has plenty of power on acceleration...doesn't seem to be misfiring. This morning I plugged the map sensor back in but didn't reset the computer. Drove it and got it up to 75-80 mph with no problems. Car shifted fine..no stopping at 3k rpms...nothing seemed wrong. Was trying to show my wife what it was doing and it didn't do any of it...haha. Did it just take this long for the computer to work itself back out??
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #14  
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Also, I have been resetting the ecu by just taking off the negative battery cable. I've read that some suggest taking out the ECU backup fuse. Which fuse is this as I do not have an underhood fusebox diagram? How do you suggest resetting the ECU??
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Both ways work the same. Use whichever you prefer.

The chart on the cover of the fuse box says "BACK UP" over that fuse. It's a 7.5 amp. If you don't have a cover on your fuse box, get one because water will get in there and ruin it.
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #16  
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It's got a cover..just no diagram on there. If I do the battery cable thing, how long should I leave it off? I've only been leaving it off for about 30 seconds. Some people have been saying you have to remove the fuse that just taking the battery cable off will not work. So there's no truth to that?
 
Old Mar 3, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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Again, either way works. It's fuse 32. Remove it for several minutes and then reinstall.

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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #18  
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I plugged the map sensor back in....Reset the computer and drove the car. It started doing the same thing...limiting to 3k rpms. When the map sensor was off it raised the rev limit to around 4k-4500 rpms. Top speed I could reach was around 60 mph...I mean if I was going down hill I could get it to 70 but not really much more. So now the computer has been reset, and back to 3k. I took it to my mechanic friend to check the timing(I don't know much about cars..especially foreign) Let me throw this out there...we went to a junk yard to get a distributor but it turned out to be the wrong one. He used the igniter and coil from it to rebuild the original. If the timing checks out could this be part of my problem? Still no CEL codes though. Can it go into "limp" mode with no codes?
 
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #19  
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Now, I should probably update this...I forgot to mention that before everything went wrong, my speedometer would sometimes work and sometimes not...and it would jump around as well. Could a VSS that is going out cause the TCU to go into a limp mode?
 
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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Does the CEL turn on while driving when experiencing the problem?
 



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