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VTECH Oil Pressure Switch?

Old 10-30-2013, 01:34 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Default VTECH Oil Pressure Switch?

Hey guys, I'm new to the community. Recently purchased an '05 Honda Civic EX, have been having issues like no other in the (what seems likes long) 2 months I've owned it. I'm needing help with my current issues, but I'll tell you how I ended up here first.

Bought it off the lot at 110k miles, thought that was a snag to find a Civic with only that many miles on the odometer.

1. Doesn't really matter with my current situation, but I didn't realize that there was a huge gash in the sidewall on one of my tires, so I had to purchase new tires literally less than a week after I had bought it.

2. Was in a drive-thru where a guy had backed up into me, owning my front bumper. Also after the accident, my temperature gauge was going up and the engine was overheating. At the time, I thought he had punctured my radiator, or did something to the cooling system. Luckily the guy ended up being the owner of a car dealership that was literally 50 yards away from where he snagged my bumper. He replaced the front bumper, radiator, and thermostat.

3. I moved to the Portland area about a month ago now, and on the way here (300 miles out of Boise, 400 to go) my temperature gauge was going up, then back down, then back up. So I pulled over and got it towed. Water pump wasn't working properly, so I replaced it along with my timing belt, it was getting time for a new one.

4. Get it fixed up, and I'm back on the road. About 2 days later, it the temp gauge starts fluctuating again. Had my Aunt's Boyfriend take a look at it, and it ended up being a blown head gasket (either I purchased it with a blown gasket, or it blew when they previously mentioned guy had hit me). He replaced it for me (thank god, would have been an expensive mechanic visit).

5. Now that I'm back on the road again, the check engine light is on. Everytime I would hit 4000 RPMS, the engine would like buckle almost like it was running out of gas, or just dying. Was thinking it's either the oil viscosity (the fumes getting into the oil with the head gasket repair) not triggering the VTECH valve, or now I have a problem with the VTECH valve itself. I get an oil change and while I'm at the shop, I convince them to get my Check Engine light code. Turns out it was a P2646, which is the code for what I thought the problem was. They wouldn't clear it for me (so I could see of the two which it was) so I was driving on it just running errands around town to see if it would turn off. Eventually, after what my guess would be about 40 miles, it turned off on it's own. I was thinking it was just the viscosity and I'm back in business. The very next day driving to work, the Check Engine light comes back on.

Posting this story (long story) to give the full details in getting this light off and driving without a worry.

So basically I'm asking what you guys think it could be, the VTECH Oil Pressure Switch with how my car buckles when I hit 4,000 RPMS? Worries me the most about how it had gone off, and then came back on. I haven't gotten the code for the new light yet, which is what I'm going to do tomorrow bright & early.

Will I be okay with driving my car with a failing VTECH valve? I live about 15-20 minutes away from work and don't have many other options right now.

Also, how much would a VTECH valve replacement cost me?

Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give all the details and everything that's happened along the way in hopes of getting some help with my situation!

Thanks a ton for any help!
Old 10-30-2013, 03:13 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023

It's VTEC not VTECH.

If the check engine light is on for about any reason, the car goes to limp mode which means the VTEC does not work and you have a rev limiter around 4500.

If it's only the VTEC valve and sensor you should be able to reset the code and drive normally with the CEL staying off as long as you don't go up to 5500 or wherever the VTEC tries to engage on that model. The valve simply bolts on to the back of the head it's easy to replace. The gasket contains a filter screen which can get clogged if the oil has been very dirty.

With a blown head gasket and taking the engine apart to replace it, the oil is likely to get contaminated and should be changed immediately as a preventative measure.
Old 11-02-2013, 04:33 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2

The 2005 civic has the d17a2 motor in it, which has VTEC switchover at 3200 rpm.
Sounds like the issue I had when I bought mine last year.
I would at the very least check the filter screen mk378 mentioned, or just replace the valve.
I had to replace mine; had same issue- changed it out and not an issue since.
Old 11-18-2013, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 46

Originally Posted by CivicBioMed View Post
The 2005 civic has the d17a2 motor in it, which has VTEC switchover at 3200 rpm.
Sounds like the issue I had when I bought mine last year.
I would at the very least check the filter screen mk378 mentioned, or just replace the valve.
I had to replace mine; had same issue- changed it out and not an issue since.
Whoooooaaaa, Kimo Sabe. I drive I-95 each day in my 01' Civic EX at 70 mph and my tach says approx 3400 RMP in 5th gear, and I can tell you I am NOT in VTEC mode. RPM's are not the ONLY factor to activate VTEC, it's oil pressure and there is a LOT more oil pressure accelerating at 3200 RPM in 3rd gear than cruising at 3200 RPM in 5th gear. If it was simply RPM's, I wouldn't be getting 38-40 mpg on the highway.
Old 11-18-2013, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DUB Caeser
Posts: 7,178

vtec in that car could be for gas efficiency, not power. rpms are not the only thing which determines vtec engagement. usually, pedal must be down to a certain point as well.
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