Well, my head a splode.

I got troubles with my 1993 Honda Civic LX Sedan (D15B7, 4AT, 99% rice free)

I went to go to a gathering this afternoon and my car was not going to start. I put in the key, turned to III, and alas, all circuits dead. The indicators that normally indicate quit indicating. I then went back to lock, and down to II, only for the dash to make rapid fire clicking, reminescent of a battery that has no juice.

So, I jumped my car, and after a lot of jumping, it finally jjjuuuusssssttt started over. I drove it to Key Largo, had a good time, and when I went to resupply the water balloon fight, my car, once again, was not going to start. "Dead battery" says you? "I doubt it" says I. I turned on the interior light later to see what kind of battery there was, and it kind of flickered bright and less bright and more bright etc. So after another jump I drove home.

Then the plot thickens.

As I am driving, I notice that when I push the brake, I hear a loud solenoid-like click under the shifter (4AT) and all my lights (even the dash lights) dim for a brief moment at the same time. In fact, this happens every time. So I pull up my car, and I cut the engine. I have it in P for obvious reasons, but when I go to take the key out, it won't turn to LOCK. This is not right, since when the shifter is in P you take out your key. In a stroke of genius I push the brake. Guess what. It goes to LOCK and comes out.

So I pop the hood, head over to the battery and treat it to a vigorous wire brushing. Then after that, I try to start it. No lucks. Same issues. Then, with the key to II and the brake down I try to pop into N. No go. So, using my broken origional key, I put it in N.

(Unimportant story development now) The car rolls back until I can push the brake. Subsequently, I hear a creak that I am not supposed to hear, and look to the left to see that my driver door has now "hyperextended". DOH!! SO, after getting the winch out and winching my car up some, I find that my door is still working. Phew.

So, do any of you geniouses have any ideas as to what is happening? Are my 10 AA batteries finally in need of change, or is something more sinister going on?

 

I didn't read the whole post, but from what i did read you might have a problem with the alternator. You said that when you press the brake the lights dim. When you press ur brake, the brake lights turn on and take power from the battery/alternator. If your car doesn't have enough power or isn't making enough power, there is less power for all the other components and they get less current causing the dimming effect. Next time your car starts, get a voltmeter and put it across the terminals while the car is running. The voltage should be 13.6v more higher. If it isn't there is a problem in the charging system.

 

OK, but this means I get a new battery...

...I still am wondering about the wacky solenoid issues, 'cuse it seems like the Shift Lock and Key Interlock got swapped in function... wierd.

...I sure hope my alternator ain't going 'cause I haven't got the cash for another yet...

 

I got a new battery, put it in, and started, of course. Then, I checked the volts and got 14.34 volts. Since the battery is new I presume that the volts are a bit inflated, but does this look OK for running? I.E. can you tell if the alternator is still alternating?

 

To make sure your alternator is running you can take your positive wire off your battery while your car is running. If you have a bad alt.. then the alternator will die, if it is good then it will keep running without help from the battery.

 

I'm pretty sure that if the alternator wasn't converting AC to DC then your electronics would not work at all. I think (but not sure) that if the alternator isn't rectifying (AC to DC) the current then the Alternator will not put out any current. The best and easiest alternator test you can do is to start the car (if it starts) and put the meter across battery terminals. The voltage should be between 13.5volts and 15volts. When you checked the voltage, was the engine on or off? If the engine was on and it was reading 14v, then your alternator should be fine. If your car doesn't start after that (b/c the battery is dead), you might have a parasitic draw.

 

some auto parts stores have these hand-held battery testers that cost between 200 - 300 dollars. they will tell you your battery condition. guess you had the battery tested ??
i know the local wal-mart has one, as does auto-zone.

Is your ALT or BAT light on, in the instrument cluster ??

you can check that the light works by turning the key to the ON position. the bat or alt will come on to show you that the light is working.

if the light is not on with the engine running, best bet is that the alternator is OK.