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Winter starting problem and rough idle

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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:35 AM
  #1  
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Default Winter starting problem and rough idle

Hello to all,
I have a 97 civic HB auto with a mini-me swap (y7 block/y8 v/tec head). The car has been running good except for a low idle issue i've been having + my newest problem. (issue 1)->It seems to idle rough only when i'm in gear at a complete stop. (issue 2)-> About 3 days ago I parked my car at work for about 10 hours (in -15 degree weather) and when I went to start it would crank but would not turn over, I thought the battery was bad so I jumped it but still would not turn over. I sprayed some starter fluid in TB and nothing, I made sure all my wires were secure still nothing. After 2 hours of trying I was pissed and tried one more time, I slammed the gas pedal to the floor and turned the key and vroooom it started but it had no heat and was overheating, but it ran at normal temp after a few minutes but heat never came on. I got it home and I changed the tstat (found out the old one was fine by boiling it). Then, I flushed the coolant and bled the air (added 50/50 pre mix). It was starting fine in the garage then I took it for a ride to the store. It was about 25 degrees this day so not too cold, It sat in the parking lot for about 20 minutes, I went to start it and it cranked like before but did'nt turn over so I figured it worked before so why not, I gave it some gas while trying to start it and vrooom, same thing. It seems it could be so many different things I am looking for a starting point so I don't take unnecessary steps. I am afraid to drive this thing till I figure this out. (almost forgot, my heat works fine now)
Thx in advanced.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:58 AM
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Hey low. I have your first issue. My car idle's rough when I'm either stop on neutral or in gear. My dash would get dim and so would my fog lights and main lights. Then when I start to accelerate everything goes bright again.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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itsfliproduct, what you are describing is a bad alternator. that's what happened to my civic. how old is it? the brightness of the dash lights and headlights should always be constant and should not get brighter with acceleration. Mine did that for about 3-4 yrs b/4 it stopped charging the battery all together and gave me a no start.

low35 is partly a different problem. your situation appears to be fuel related as you say when you press the gas, it starts. it seems like it is starving for fuel. could be several things, but here is a starter list:

1. fuel filter might be clogging.
2. fuel pump might be dying
3. there is pressure loss in your fuel lines
4. could be many more things.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Default thx

I will check those things out and let you know my findings.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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Well, I found out my battery is just about toast, my alternator is fine, and their is no engine codes being thrown (thx Autozone). So after I change the battery I will check back.
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:40 AM
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I have that same problem, and just replaced my battery... Most always it is the battery. Mainly in winter weather because of the intense cold strain.

But the second problem is just weird... Heh.
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:58 AM
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Mundy, the "gas" pedal of Civics in this thread controls air intake not fuel.

I think that, for both members posting problems in this thread, the issue may be solved by cleaning or replacing the IACV on the throttle body. In this regard, issues 1 and 2 reported by low35 are likely related to inadequate IACV-controlled air bypass to the intake manifold.
 

Last edited by RonJ; Jan 19, 2009 at 06:00 AM.
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Thx for the info, I will check the IACV and get back to the forum.
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Mundy, the "gas" pedal of Civics in this thread controls air intake not fuel.
no I did not realize that that is what was meant by "gas."

That still does not explain the brightness of the headlights and dash lights etc. I still think that the alternators are going bad. At least from what oreillys tells me, the only way to know the condition of the alternator is to do a bench test which requires you to take it out of the car and bring to the auto parts stores.

In my case, my old alt passed 2 out of 3 tests so that's why it was not diagnosed easily while it was still in the car.

hope this helps someone here.

I am speaking in particular of itsfliproduct's comment
when I start to accelerate everything goes bright again.
 
Old Jan 19, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mundy5
...That still does not explain the brightness of the headlights and dash lights etc. I still think that the alternators are going bad. At least from what oreillys tells me, the only way to know the condition of the alternator is to do a bench test which requires you to take it out of the car and bring to the auto parts stores. In my case, my old alt passed 2 out of 3 tests so that's why it was not diagnosed easily while it was still in the car.
Mundy, I completely understand your diagnosis based on the information. You may very well be right. I did not favor this idea, however, because a low idle speed due to an IACV problem might seem to be caused by an alternator problem, as evidenced by dimming lights. Instead, the low engine rpm and therefore alternator output would give this false image.
 



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