Wont Start... 93 honda civic
Ok so i changed out the b15 motor to a 1.6 vtec motor. The harness was pretty much the same. I got everything hooked up and nothing. I got fuel and fire but nothing. I did also here the motor run before i swapped it out. I do not have the vtec hooked up yet to the P28. But i was told it would work fine just the vtec wont work... Also had a mechanic put in a new timing belt. it has an aftermarket alarm system which i know nothing about, Could that be the problem??? The old motor was junk had no compression so i didnt not get to hear it run... Can someone please give me some tips.
Check the timing and firing order. Set to TDC1 and check timing marks on crank and cam. Confirm distributor rotor points to wire #1 with engine at TDC1. The other wires are 1-3-4-2 going clockwise looking at the outside of the distributor cap.
If someone adjusted the valves, make sure it was done properly; valves too tight will cause loss of compression and possibly no start.
If someone adjusted the valves, make sure it was done properly; valves too tight will cause loss of compression and possibly no start.
Generally if the fuel pump runs and spark plugs fire, ECU is OK. Put the jumper in and see if there are any codes. ECU failure is not common anyway. You could try the old stock D15B7 ECU with a D16 VTEC. It would run but VTEC will not work.
How much did you rewire? The only difference should be the VTEC wires. Also make sure that the 3-wire plug with one white wire is on the MAP not the TPS. They are the same type of plug and can be interchanged by accident.
How much did you rewire? The only difference should be the VTEC wires. Also make sure that the 3-wire plug with one white wire is on the MAP not the TPS. They are the same type of plug and can be interchanged by accident.
Check the ECU ground wires on the thermostat housing. It's easy to overlook those when swapping the engine.
If the car hasn't run for a while, the gas in the tank may be stale. Disconnect the return hose and obtain a sample in a clean clear container (Using the return hose also proves that fuel is going through the fuel rail with enough pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator). If the gas has water in it, bad color (dark), or smells wrong, drain the tank and put fresh in. The Civic engine is hard to start with stale gas. Starting fluid will not help either.
Along those lines, the injectors could be clogged so fuel is not actually going into the cylinders. First check that the ECU is driving the injectors by unplugging and connecting a small light bulb to the plug (a #194 with the pins bent out works). The bulb should flash when you crank. Injectors can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. VERY CAREFULLY push on the pintle end and make sure it is free to move. It doesn't move far but it can be stuck.
You haven't said if you checked for codes or actually took the cap off to make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out.
At some point (very soon it appears), it is best to walk away and forget everything you've done to the car so far. Come back and recheck the whole thing from scratch, assuming nothing is good until you've checked it.
If the car hasn't run for a while, the gas in the tank may be stale. Disconnect the return hose and obtain a sample in a clean clear container (Using the return hose also proves that fuel is going through the fuel rail with enough pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator). If the gas has water in it, bad color (dark), or smells wrong, drain the tank and put fresh in. The Civic engine is hard to start with stale gas. Starting fluid will not help either.
Along those lines, the injectors could be clogged so fuel is not actually going into the cylinders. First check that the ECU is driving the injectors by unplugging and connecting a small light bulb to the plug (a #194 with the pins bent out works). The bulb should flash when you crank. Injectors can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. VERY CAREFULLY push on the pintle end and make sure it is free to move. It doesn't move far but it can be stuck.
You haven't said if you checked for codes or actually took the cap off to make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out.
At some point (very soon it appears), it is best to walk away and forget everything you've done to the car so far. Come back and recheck the whole thing from scratch, assuming nothing is good until you've checked it.
A toggle switch added for the fuel pump is usually an anti-theft measure. With the switch off the car won't start. Switch on and it works normally. A potential thief would not only need to bust the ignition switch but also know where to find the extra switch in order to get the car to run.
The pump should run constantly when the engine is cranking or running, and turn off when it stops and/or the key is turned off. With the pump running constantly it pumps more fuel than the engine can use. The regulator allows the excess to return to the tank when the fuel rail pressure has reached the regulation point.
If a switch has been installed to bypass the main relay in a jury-rigged manner you should remove it and restore the wiring to stock. Any added switch should simply be in series with the pump to disable the engine and make the car harder to steal.
The pump should run constantly when the engine is cranking or running, and turn off when it stops and/or the key is turned off. With the pump running constantly it pumps more fuel than the engine can use. The regulator allows the excess to return to the tank when the fuel rail pressure has reached the regulation point.
If a switch has been installed to bypass the main relay in a jury-rigged manner you should remove it and restore the wiring to stock. Any added switch should simply be in series with the pump to disable the engine and make the car harder to steal.
A toggle switch added for the fuel pump is usually an anti-theft measure. With the switch off the car won't start. Switch on and it works normally. A potential thief would not only need to bust the ignition switch but also know where to find the extra switch in order to get the car to run.
The pump should run constantly when the engine is cranking or running, and turn off when it stops and/or the key is turned off. With the pump running constantly it pumps more fuel than the engine can use. The regulator allows the excess to return to the tank when the fuel rail pressure has reached the regulation point.
If a switch has been installed to bypass the main relay in a jury-rigged manner you should remove it and restore the wiring to stock. Any added switch should simply be in series with the pump to disable the engine and make the car harder to steal.
The pump should run constantly when the engine is cranking or running, and turn off when it stops and/or the key is turned off. With the pump running constantly it pumps more fuel than the engine can use. The regulator allows the excess to return to the tank when the fuel rail pressure has reached the regulation point.
If a switch has been installed to bypass the main relay in a jury-rigged manner you should remove it and restore the wiring to stock. Any added switch should simply be in series with the pump to disable the engine and make the car harder to steal.
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