good write up there sac!...i think my eyes are about to fall out but it was helpful...thanks...lol

 

what can i say.... i think too much. and mostly about cars. im doomed.[:@] ........

 

lol...sounds like me except you know a lot more...im learnign tho...what surprised me is i had heard a lot of what you said...its kinda cool..learnign that is..lol....i am having a big delema with my tranny if you will check out that post for me....mine now is done for i cant really drive it much longer and i need major help!...i been searching for sites on it all night and i cant find ANYTHIGN!!!! AHHHH.

 

are any of honda tranny's interchageable?IE chage out bell houseing and batta bing?I got more questions about what you posted SAC,but I got to get ready for work.The rail road never likes to wait.

 

the d-series trannies will all (hydro ones anyway) work on your car, but stick with the ex one. it has good gear ratios. the only one that has better ratios is the 92-95 si, but the only difference is the fifth gear, which is a little shorter, so, considering you wont use fifth in many races, all it will do is hurt your gas mileage. and just get a quaiffe (sp?) lsd.

 

looks like we're in the same boat. lol. i dont have any imput to give cuz sac took all the fun, j/k but welcome to HCF, hope u like it here.

 

take out the stock plugs in the crank and replace them with allen head set-screws with loctite. maybe look into posting the block or installing a blockguard.(quote)

What was you meening by plugs.Does the honda have plugs in crank for counter weight?Posting the block?please explain,that is not a term that I have herd of.And I understand block guard,but who has it what does it look like.I've never had to use one before on toyota's.


Thanks again for you guyz help.This is good research for my next project.Glad I took my daughters advice and did it this way.

And does any one have site for the Carillo rods?

 

in the crank, there are small plugs that are pressed into the counterweights, not for balancing, but the allow access to the oiling passages. on a high horsepower engine, they CAN POSSIBLY come loose (its not a common occurance, but its better safe than sorry.) and lose oil pressure. so engine builders remove them and tap the holes, then install threaded setscrews with loctite so they wont accidentally come out. and block posting is accomplished by drilling small holes into the block, tapping them, then threading what are basically setscrews into them so that they barely rest against the ouside of the cylinder walls. this braces them against vibration. and the posts are made of the same material as the cylinders, so that they expand and contract the same. there is a writeup on it HERE.

 

Kewl thanks for that bit of info.
Are there not these things that slide between the outside cylinder wall and block that supports the entire length of the cylinder wall,and yet still not block the coolant passage?

 

no, well, not if your thinking of what im thinking. its called a blockguard. it fills the gap between the cylinder walls and the block, but it only goes down about half an inch. they are great for low to mid levels of tune, if done right, they are a little better than the posting. but if you do one, get the cylinders line bored to make sure the guard isnt flexing them out of round. there are also "sleeves" but they are really freakin expensive, and unless you are going ALL OUT, the money is better spent elsewhere. they basically replace the whole cylinder with a thicker one made of better materials. they are good up to about 40psi of boost (supposedly, if you get everything else THAT built.) so i think that'd be a little overkill for you.