Hello honda owners!!
#1
Hello honda owners!!
Hey yall, my name is Brian and i own a 95' Honda civic EX with a D16Z6 in her. She has about 180,000 on her and still going strong. So far I have replaced the half shafts, and done a timing belt on her. My dad is a Mopar man, and has a garage with a lift, and vast number of tools (of which I also know how to use). My goal, is to have this car, making around 200 hp on the stock motor by this time next year. So I could use some advice on where to start.
#3
I really could care less about the AC. But I need to rephrase, I would like to keep the D16Z6, but I don't mind changing stuff like the cam, changing headers, fuel supply, etc. Preferably I would like to start off with less costly items (Can't afford a turbo yet). I recently got a hole in my exhaust so I'm thinking of starting there. Any suggestions to something that doesn't sound too......obnoxious...lol?
#5
You don't need to alter your fuel system unless you are making enough power to require it, such as if you had a turbocharger. With bolt-on parts like intake, header, and exhaust, and small engine upgrades like the cam, you won't need more fuel. It would actually just be a waste of money and will hurt your gas mileage, catalytic converter, and spark plugs more than anything else.
The D16Z6 is a great D-series engine and can handle 200 WHP with stock internals as long as everything is done right (proper tune, adequate fuel pump and injectors, etc.). First you should do a compression test and leak-down test to make sure the engine is healthy enough to be producing that much power though.
To make 200 WHP you wouldn't need to remove A/C, you would just have to go with an A/C compatible turbo setup, which isn't that hard to find. The GReddy and Edelbrock turbo/manifold/downpipe setups are A/C compatible. There is really no other reason to remove the A/C... you'll only lighten the car a little bit, which isn't a huge concern unless this is a track car, and you won't gain much if any power because when the A/C is off there is almost no parasitic drag on the engine from the A/C compressor. If for some reason you need that power for a little while, just turn off the A/C button on your HVAC controls... this will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging. You wouldn't really need to remove A/C unless you were trying to put down huge numbers that would require a big turbo and absolutely no parasitic drag.
Stuff like intake, header, exhaust, and cam aren't going to get you anywhere close to 200 WHP, but they'll help a little bit. However, if you plan on going turbo in the future, a header is a waste of money unless you get one for an extremely cheap price or free, since the turbo manifold will replace the header. You can do anyway it if you want though... you could always sell the header later. The exhaust and cam though are great mods to do, even if you plan on going turbo later, because they complement your other mods.
A more aggressive cam is going to complement the turbocharger later and help you get to 200 WHP, possibly even on less boost than you would have had to use if you had the stock cam, depending on what kind of cam you get. Keep in mind that with anything over a stage 1 cam, it is recommended that you get stronger valve springs and retainers. Might as well replace the valve seals too while you're in there. You might even want new valves.
The exhaust will complement future modifications like a turbocharger also. When you turbo, you don't want to have stock exhaust as it is too restrictive and makes it much more difficult to reach your power goals.
The D16Z6 is a great D-series engine and can handle 200 WHP with stock internals as long as everything is done right (proper tune, adequate fuel pump and injectors, etc.). First you should do a compression test and leak-down test to make sure the engine is healthy enough to be producing that much power though.
To make 200 WHP you wouldn't need to remove A/C, you would just have to go with an A/C compatible turbo setup, which isn't that hard to find. The GReddy and Edelbrock turbo/manifold/downpipe setups are A/C compatible. There is really no other reason to remove the A/C... you'll only lighten the car a little bit, which isn't a huge concern unless this is a track car, and you won't gain much if any power because when the A/C is off there is almost no parasitic drag on the engine from the A/C compressor. If for some reason you need that power for a little while, just turn off the A/C button on your HVAC controls... this will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging. You wouldn't really need to remove A/C unless you were trying to put down huge numbers that would require a big turbo and absolutely no parasitic drag.
Stuff like intake, header, exhaust, and cam aren't going to get you anywhere close to 200 WHP, but they'll help a little bit. However, if you plan on going turbo in the future, a header is a waste of money unless you get one for an extremely cheap price or free, since the turbo manifold will replace the header. You can do anyway it if you want though... you could always sell the header later. The exhaust and cam though are great mods to do, even if you plan on going turbo later, because they complement your other mods.
A more aggressive cam is going to complement the turbocharger later and help you get to 200 WHP, possibly even on less boost than you would have had to use if you had the stock cam, depending on what kind of cam you get. Keep in mind that with anything over a stage 1 cam, it is recommended that you get stronger valve springs and retainers. Might as well replace the valve seals too while you're in there. You might even want new valves.
The exhaust will complement future modifications like a turbocharger also. When you turbo, you don't want to have stock exhaust as it is too restrictive and makes it much more difficult to reach your power goals.