My buddy has a 98 HX with the normal bolt on's, CAI, catback, shortshifter, MSD Blaster Coil wires etc. Ne who, we all know the HX's have the D16Y5 Vtec-e, the 'e' standing for the exhaust valves on the cam being affected by v-tec. Well he wants to get a little more 'umph' out of his HX and wants to buy one of those complete turbo kits off ebay, but wants to substitute the fake t3/t4 with a t25 and compliment it with a nicer FMIC. What are your thoughts on this? Obviously, a new MAP is going to be needed, fuel pump and maybe bigger injectors depending on the amount of boost he wants, prolly 7-10psi. Do you think the stock ECU with a piggy back setupwill allow the stock injectors to be used? Im not 100% sure on my honda ****, so i need help convincing him that this isnt the motor to turbo. Stock internals and 112,000 miles by the way

 

i would have him convert to obd1 and tune from there with like chrome or hondata. If you must stay obd2 you can use a piggy back like an afc hack or you can get a full stand alone like AEM

 

Why is he bothering getting the ebay kit if he is swiching the turbo and the FMIC thats a big waste of money ebay kits are worthless as is and the manifold would almost certaintly crack so basically the ebay kit gets him nothing except maybe piping which can be bought for much less. I wouldn't say he shouldn't turbo it just get a better kit or build it himself and I do not suggest piggyback systems get a real engine management/chipped ecuand tune it Crome would work and would be cheap. Make sure he gets at least a compression test to see if his engine is even going to stand up to boost though.

 

A friend of mine got an ebay turbo kit. The Turbo itself required major porting, i had many hours put into the measuring and porting the entire hotside. The manifold being cast was probably the strongest thing in the whole kit. We eventually had to replace a bunch of stuff and it cost almost twice as much. I wouldnt do it, I would tell him to wait and save his money to get a better kit. Remember when building cars patience is key. You either do it right or do it twice.

 

Just tell him to forget about it. He'd be better off spending the money to put a different engine in it.

 

thanks for all the info, hopefully after reading this, he will change his mind. I agree with all of you, get the obdII conversion harness to obd I. i didnt realize how ****ty the ebay turbos are, i mean i knew they were ****ty come on 500 bucks for a full kit! I dunno, im prolly gonna do a motor swap with him, he found a 62,000 mile D16Z6 out of a 95 EX. I hear that these motors can go either way when you turbo them. and im assuming he will need a conversion harness to even a run a Z6 right? and probably a p28 ecu right?

 

yea im in the same situation...ive got a 99 hx and plan on swapin either a b16 or b18c in and boostin it (8-12 psi)...not really sure if the extra $$ is worth the bigger displacment tho...wat did ur friend end up doin then?

 

do the b18c man. GSR swap FTW!



To the OP:
The "e" in VTEC-E does not stand for the exhaust valves being affected by VTEC. It stands for "Efficiency".
VTEC-E - Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control for Efficiency. This system isn't really VTEC as we know it. At low RPM, the VTEC-E mechanism effectively forces the engine to operate as a 12-valve engine - one of the intake valves does not open fully, thus decreasing fuel consumption. At a set RPM value (i.e., ~2500RPM in the D16Y5), the VTEC-E mechanism engages the 2nd intake valve, effectively resuming operation as a normal 16-valve engine. Note: in a VTEC-E engine, there are no high-RPM performance cam profiles; this engine is supposed to be tuned for fuel economy.