Fast eggs... how much $ to make?
stock 92-95 hatch can be had for fairly cheap if you find a good sorce(like a older person that is not into imports)
Dont swap, swaps are way over rated just get a 92-95 si hatch with the d16z6 power plant and boost it. I'd say around $2g's for the car, do a compression test and a leak down test to make sure it is running properly and boost the single cam. You can and will be deep into the 13's with this for around $4000 total price if you plan well and read about the stuff. I see people spending way to much money on this crap simply cause they dont do their research.
BTW dont buy a turbo kit, go custom as it will save tons of money and if done correctly yeild a lot better results.
Dont swap, swaps are way over rated just get a 92-95 si hatch with the d16z6 power plant and boost it. I'd say around $2g's for the car, do a compression test and a leak down test to make sure it is running properly and boost the single cam. You can and will be deep into the 13's with this for around $4000 total price if you plan well and read about the stuff. I see people spending way to much money on this crap simply cause they dont do their research.
BTW dont buy a turbo kit, go custom as it will save tons of money and if done correctly yeild a lot better results.
if you find a hatch that has a body in good shape and a blown engine...it shouldnt cost more than 2000. and since your swappin the engine anyways, itd be a good buy.
+1 on the GSR. and yes...it is the B18c1. a good idea would be to swap the b16 head onto your 18 block because 1) it will lower compression and 2) it flows a little better than the GSR head. a b16 head will run around 300-500.
i know theres a small company called Full-Race...theyre not really big...but they were started by some guys just out of college who studied almost every aspect of turbocharging and fixed all the problems they could. it resulted in headers and pipes with almost no backpressure...but the kits are quite expensive. i think stage 1 for a B (i think they say around 450whp) is like 2500ish...up to stage 4 (up to and including 700whp) is 5500. they have kits to keep AC an kits to get rid of AC.
and get a good tune...like a GOOD tune
+1 on the GSR. and yes...it is the B18c1. a good idea would be to swap the b16 head onto your 18 block because 1) it will lower compression and 2) it flows a little better than the GSR head. a b16 head will run around 300-500.
i know theres a small company called Full-Race...theyre not really big...but they were started by some guys just out of college who studied almost every aspect of turbocharging and fixed all the problems they could. it resulted in headers and pipes with almost no backpressure...but the kits are quite expensive. i think stage 1 for a B (i think they say around 450whp) is like 2500ish...up to stage 4 (up to and including 700whp) is 5500. they have kits to keep AC an kits to get rid of AC.
and get a good tune...like a GOOD tune
ORIGINAL: md420
stock 92-95 hatch can be had for fairly cheap if you find a good sorce(like a older person that is not into imports)
Dont swap, swaps are way over rated just get a 92-95 si hatch with the d16z6 power plant and boost it. I'd say around $2g's for the car, do a compression test and a leak down test to make sure it is running properly and boost the single cam. You can and will be deep into the 13's with this for around $4000 total price if you plan well and read about the stuff. I see people spending way to much money on this crap simply cause they dont do their research.
BTW dont buy a turbo kit, go custom as it will save tons of money and if done correctly yeild a lot better results.
stock 92-95 hatch can be had for fairly cheap if you find a good sorce(like a older person that is not into imports)
Dont swap, swaps are way over rated just get a 92-95 si hatch with the d16z6 power plant and boost it. I'd say around $2g's for the car, do a compression test and a leak down test to make sure it is running properly and boost the single cam. You can and will be deep into the 13's with this for around $4000 total price if you plan well and read about the stuff. I see people spending way to much money on this crap simply cause they dont do their research.
BTW dont buy a turbo kit, go custom as it will save tons of money and if done correctly yeild a lot better results.
ORIGINAL: BMW
i know about bavauto, it is a bmw parts site, i am not talking about bmw's though... i am not sure what you mean by what you said
ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
Dude... you gotta bimmer. Expect any part to even fart toward your car with high expenense.
Try here: www.bavauto.com
Dude... you gotta bimmer. Expect any part to even fart toward your car with high expenense.
Try here: www.bavauto.com
For some reason I misread the whole topic completly !

And saying swaps are overrated is like saying Hondas are German.
OK 10 second civic
92-95 eg hatch $2000ish
D16Z6-rods, pistons, cam around $1200 for all stuff not installed
Custome turbo setup with uberdata fuel management and a t3 super 60 or a 57 trim t3/t4 should be around $2000
Strip the interior(FREE)
Drag slicks $500
see still d series and still cheaper.
Swaps are over rated how in the hell can you justify a 30 to 50whp gain for $3000 to $4500......what a waist
92-95 eg hatch $2000ish
D16Z6-rods, pistons, cam around $1200 for all stuff not installed
Custome turbo setup with uberdata fuel management and a t3 super 60 or a 57 trim t3/t4 should be around $2000
Strip the interior(FREE)
Drag slicks $500
see still d series and still cheaper.
Swaps are over rated how in the hell can you justify a 30 to 50whp gain for $3000 to $4500......what a waist
ORIGINAL: md420
OK 10 second civic
92-95 eg hatch $2000ish
D16Z6-rods, pistons, cam around $1200 for all stuff not installed
Custome turbo setup with uberdata fuel management and a t3 super 60 or a 57 trim t3/t4 should be around $2000
Strip the interior(FREE)
Drag slicks $500
see still d series and still cheaper.
Swaps are over rated how in the hell can you justify a 30 to 50whp gain for $3000 to $4500......what a waist
OK 10 second civic
92-95 eg hatch $2000ish
D16Z6-rods, pistons, cam around $1200 for all stuff not installed
Custome turbo setup with uberdata fuel management and a t3 super 60 or a 57 trim t3/t4 should be around $2000
Strip the interior(FREE)
Drag slicks $500
see still d series and still cheaper.
Swaps are over rated how in the hell can you justify a 30 to 50whp gain for $3000 to $4500......what a waist
www.sohchonda.com read up
www.turbod16.com read up
You dont have to swap simple as that, also he said he has a BMW for daily
www.turbod16.com read up
You dont have to swap simple as that, also he said he has a BMW for daily
ORIGINAL: BMW
if i did all this... would it be reliable? if i made a civic run in 10's-11's would it be a reliable daily driver?
if i did all this... would it be reliable? if i made a civic run in 10's-11's would it be a reliable daily driver?
And I never once said it can't be done. I've done it myself for people. What I'm saying is that a swap is a better idea in terms of performance, expandability, and reliability when compared with how much money you end up spending. You really can't argue with that...
Yes I can a eg hatch will need to be in the area of 350whp to be in the 10's. For one you will never get in the 10's with any engine w/o a pair of slicks and second a B series will still need to be built to make that power.
Reliability with depend on how well it is put together and tuned no matter what engine you use. B series blocks cant with-stand any more than D series blocks on a daily basis fully built in this power range so unless your looking at 500/600+whp on a fully built DRAG car it is pointless to swap IMO. Also a LS swap will cost more than $750 by the time you add integra axels, a new rear mount, and get rid of the lack luster long geared tranny in favor of the shorter geared B16 tranny.
Fully built D series is in the area of $2000 including transmission work and a aftermarket LSD
A B series swap(LS) will get up around $1500 with just bolt ons
This is not a pissing match it is pure economics. You can have a fully built D16 boosted for the price of a ITR swap making anywhere from 200 to 500whp tuned correctly.
Reliability with depend on how well it is put together and tuned no matter what engine you use. B series blocks cant with-stand any more than D series blocks on a daily basis fully built in this power range so unless your looking at 500/600+whp on a fully built DRAG car it is pointless to swap IMO. Also a LS swap will cost more than $750 by the time you add integra axels, a new rear mount, and get rid of the lack luster long geared tranny in favor of the shorter geared B16 tranny.
Fully built D series is in the area of $2000 including transmission work and a aftermarket LSD
A B series swap(LS) will get up around $1500 with just bolt ons
This is not a pissing match it is pure economics. You can have a fully built D16 boosted for the price of a ITR swap making anywhere from 200 to 500whp tuned correctly.


