You're completely missing the point. What I'm TRYING to say is that, when all is said and done, you'll still be able to build up the 10-second LS a whole lot more than you'll be able to on the 10-second D, for a WHOLE lot less money. And you don't have to do as much to the B to get the same numbers. Remember, we're not TALKING about doing an ITR swap.

Here, a full LS front clip runs about $900, with everything you need.

Please show me the parts list for the "fully built" 10 second turbo D-series for $2,000...

And the fact remains that running a D-series with a T3/60 on the street is going to make for miserable response.

 

is that where the "egg" name came from? LOL

 

Yea I have seen them called a "egg"

BTW Kappa22, I will not argue with you man and no hard feelings. Just two different people with two different opinions. I have put out there the option now the dude can make his own choice

 

I'll drink to that.

But if you have it, I'd still be interested to see the parts list.

 

Not yet but I do plan a 350whp daily driver JDM D15B with in a year or so, I was going to do a B20 build but my loyal'ness to the single slam simply will not let me do it

 

I'll give you a parts list, and its more than 2k for sure especially if you ahve to buy a new motor, (since buying a blown hatchie would need one)

d16 motor-$300-500
Fully built Head- $600-1000(depending on cam, porting polishing etc.)Intake Mani $200
Built bottom end- $450 for pistons, $350 for rods, I dont' know how much to sleeve it but its not cheap maybe $500 for arguments sake?
So minimum $1300 for parts for the block. Crankwork?? Oil pump?? Another 150-200 bucks
Fuel managment- Fuel rail($120), high flow pump($80), injectors ($250), FPR($100), management unit $450.
Minimum FM $1000
Turbo Kit worth using 1500-4000, exhaust work 500(mandrel bent)\
clutch/flywheel $500
I'm probably missing things here but minimum you'll need $6k to do a D series the right way

 

building a D is gunna be WAAAAY more expensive than that. B is a lot cheaper to build. if your building your engine...in the end...a built B that has $5000 of work on it will eat a 5k D series alive

 

You must not have any kind of good source for parts. Around here you can get a D series block for around $50 to $75. You dont need a Fuel Rail and your fuel management price is way to much. Injectors also can be had for far less than $250. It takes research and aligning your self with the right people man which I have done a reasonable job or doing nothing out of this world or anything and I can still cut many of them prices in half.


But if it is going to be on the street who needs a un-controllable 600hp civic, a eg hatch at that. Potential is overrated if you dont use it. 500 and under hp goes to the D anything over I'd think about swapping(but not a B series)

 

I'm sorry, really hard not to laugh but, he's wants to build a 10-11 second civic and you don't think he needs an upgraded fuel rail for the extra fuel flow??? Sorry man but that's idiotic. How is my fuel management price to high?? What are you going to use, where do you get it, and how much does it cost? Greddy blue box which isn't even the best you can get runs 450 alone. Throw in a wideband to actually TUNE it and you're looking at 800 just for those two items, and don't try and tell me you can get those items cheaper cuz you can't. As far an injectors, i've seen them for 100 and i've seen them for 300+ depending on where you get them and what cc they are, so 250 is a fair estimate; in pricing its always better to overestimate than understimate when dealing with any kind of budget. As far as the block goes, yeah maybe, but if he wants the vtec model, which I guarentee he will, the head alone will cost him 150-200, and I said MOTOR which includes all the little goodies that dont' come with a block from the junkyard. Plus I didn't even include any transmission work, the cheapest LSD I've found is around 300 dollars, so with labor you might be in 500??? And we all know what happends when you use the cheapest parts, a solid LSD is more like 800 for just the part, which I'm afraid coupled with internals cripples your 2k built d16 theory. I'm glad you can magically cut prices in half, so please start selling them so we can get a good deal too, cuz I don't have access to chop shops where I live. Plus cut my reasonably estimated 6k in half, and you're still 50% higher in cost than you claimed.

 

i know i represent the d but this guys lookin to run 10s-11s....not d-series material...and if he did go with this it definately wouldn't be street reliable