I say go for it man and turbo that d17 it will be more rare few people have them turboed. Street tunes are fine. stock map reads up to 1.7bar i believe and although they are the weaker of the d's i think your goals are more than reasonable on the stock bottom end. I say ditch the light flywheel idea waste of money imo those are more for all out NA cars plus you want the extra rotating mass. I say dont rush it and research some more look for deals and go for it.

 

i agree, as much as i just love fitting in i want my car to be different, and while i know the D17 is not the best platform for boost and high power, i know that the turbo on it will meet my desiree and since its my money i guess thats all that really matters. The turbo I wanted to use is on my first post. $75 for it no shaft play, internal wastegate, and comes with downpipe from turbo so will be easy to have fabricated to fit my honda.

 

turbo D17's please me.

 

oooh okay, well then yeah, we have the same turbo. I have a 14b on my car now, btu my VJ11 is sitting out in my shed.

A bit of warning, although i haven't spent much time working on d17's, the wastaegate actuator on the VJ11 is really awkward and if mounted like most turbos are mounted, it might rub against your block. Thats why i had to swtich turbos. It wouldn't fit right with the manifold, just make sure you mount it right so it avoids the engine.

I think it's at like 8 PSI too, it's a good choice, a little smaller than a t25, but it should be great for your car.

I can quote Gene on this: "If done correctly, there is nothing wrong with a piggyback." So piece this thing together, do it right, no janky parts, get a good dyno tune, and i think you'll be just fine with the d17.

 

yes and again dont street tune it, get it tuned correctly.

 

i agree it will get tuned correctly so as to be as reliable as a typical Honda , FlipHKD720; does the turbo fit onto a T25 flange ? If not what type of manifold should i get ? I think that Greddy E-Manage Blue should be sufficient to get the final tune on. Another question, bcivic; why would you say that I want the extra rotating mass ? I mean...im trying to get some power out of the civic and I think that a light-weight flywheel should substantially help especially spooling once the RPM's are in the boost threshold. Don't have to rely solely on the turbo to get that horsepower goal that i desire. Another question, do you guys think that 8 PSI is to much even after intercooling, proper tune, walbro 255lph, and injectors ? for my stock D17

 

Like i said earlier, it is similar but not sure if it's exactly the same as a t25 flange. If someone could give me the measuremnts of the manifold flange on the t25 turbo i could measure mine and see if they're the same. If so, you can probably find a t25 adapter plate onlien alot easier than a VJ11 (less common).

No, the 8 PSI should be good with some larger injectors, definitely get an FMIC w/ t-bolts on all the charge piping, at 8 PSI on a small turbo like that you might not even need a bigger fuel pump, not sure how the 7th gens are compared to the 6th gens, and remember a stand-alone would be best but if you get a good dyno tune, you'll probably be okay.

 

ok here we go since most of the people on this site are d17 retarded. e-mangle is ****. dont use it period. even if you want to stay low boost there are much better options for a piggy back. aem f/ic and pcs xfc are both great units, run really well, and lots of people have had great results with them. BUT if you can afford it go ahead and step up to k-pro or aem ems, they will be better in the long run no matter what, but you can tune it successfully on a piggy. you can't run dsm injectors on a d17 they won't fit. you can use either rsx-s 310cc injectors, rdx 440cc injectors, or any srt-4 injectors. the srt-4 stage 1's flow 480 cc on the civic, but you can get the stage 2,3 or 4 whatever srt-4 injectors that flow much more, but the stage 1 should be plenty. you just have to swap the injector clips, really simple. a light flywheel is fine, the extra rotating mass puts more load on the engine and the turbo will spool sooner but with a turbo smaller than a t25 it wont matter either way. just dont get the ultra light.. get like an 11lb-ish flywheel. 8 psi on that small turbo will be nothing. people have pushed upwards of 240 hp on a bitch boost setup. you wont even need the walbro with that low amount of boost, although it will allow for expansion later on. just as a side note, plan on getting slim fans, it will make your life much much easier when you go to install everything.

 

Lighter flywheel on a turbo setup may net u 2-3 hp at the crank and a bit more throttle response the reason i say stick with stock is that the more rotating mass the more inertia and the more power that gets to the ground on launch not to mention stock flywheels do less wear on bearings and super light flywheels are not fun to drive daily there annoying i wish i had kept mine stock. The decision is up to you if its worth it or not. There is nothing wrong with street tuning getting it to the dyno in fact its the best thing to do its cheaper than dyno time then you can just tune the positive side of the line once on the dyno.

 

"2-3 hp at the crank and a bit more throttle response the reason i say stick with stock is that the more rotating mass the more inertia and the more power that gets to the ground on launch not to mention stock flywheels do less wear on bearings and super light flywheels are not fun to drive daily there annoying i wish i had kept mine stock. " I put a 9 lb flywheel and stage II clutch in my daily driver V6 ford probe and loved it...it was definitely more than 2-3 HP at the crank, if i recall right, in 1st gear it was equivalent to having 350lbs out of the car. I think you may be confused, lighter flywheels do less wear on bearings due to there being less weight pushing down on the crank..."