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turbo manifold question

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  #1  
Old 03-29-2009, 07:50 AM
eg_sedanryder89's Avatar
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Default turbo manifold question

hey everyone, i'm relatively new to the site and i had a question, i'm driving a 92 civic sedan with a b16a swap, cold air intake and 2 1/4 cat back exhaust but i'm planning to turbo the car soon, i've been looking at a few turbo kits and i found one that seems like a good deal but it says the manifold is for a b18, my question is will that manifold fit or would i need to find one for a b16? i've been told that it would but im not sure. any help would be really appreciated
 
  #2  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:00 AM
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The manifold would definitely fit.

As a warning (since you didn't say where the kits you're looking at are), be extremely wary of any kit on ebay; a few kits sold on ebay are half-decent, most are not.
 
  #3  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:11 AM
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+1 about ebay kits. Anything thing by a name brand should be fine. But the no name kits or SSauto kits are junk sometimes and can blow your motor, or sometimes could be fine for years. Its all luck.
 
  #4  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:58 AM
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yes some of the e bay kits have problems with the manifold cracking but non of the kits have anything to do with your motor blowing thats driver error
 
  #5  
Old 03-29-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 98whitecivic
yes some of the e bay kits have problems with the manifold cracking but non of the kits have anything to do with your motor blowing thats driver error
What about outright turbo failure?

I can't see anything bad happening to an engine when a turbo spinning up to speeds of 190,000rpm grenades... I mean, it's not like shrapnel could make its way into the engine or anything

And blowing motors really isn't driver error; it's tuning error and/or mechanical/electrical failure. I've never yet seen a driver crank the wheel to full lock left and have the AFR lean out to 20:1.


I'm not trying to be a jacka**, but the problem with presenting partially incorrect information on a public forum is that some people will take it as gospel truth, and possibly tell it to someone else, presenting it as absolute fact. Person C may now take that [incorrect] information, and based upon it, buy a part. I'd rather not see anyone on these boards buy a suspect turbo kit based on the idea that the turbo is perfectly fine to run on their engines.
 
  #6  
Old 03-29-2009, 12:59 PM
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Ever heard of such a thing as boost spike? Not driver error and could kill your motor. If your going to boost a car, just make sure its done with quality parts that you can depend on. Why spend $500 now on a cheap *** setup that could cause serious damage? Just save and research the first time.
 
  #7  
Old 03-29-2009, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 98whitecivic
yes some of the e bay kits have problems with the manifold cracking but non of the kits have anything to do with your motor blowing thats driver error
gtfo with your misinformation.

i'd say more, but reaper and plethoric already covered it.
 
  #8  
Old 03-30-2009, 09:45 AM
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90% of blown motors are caused by driver error, the other 10% are parts and tunning so he can get away with a cheap e bay kit. but thats not a recommeneded route to take. some people cant afford the 3k-5k turbo kits
 
  #9  
Old 03-30-2009, 10:02 AM
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So define driver error. Because where I come from, "driver error" is a term used when discussing the cause of an accident. Honestly, the only true "driver error" cause of a blown motor would be missing a gear and downshifting at redline, which I have seen happen.

Honestly, I don't think you know what you're talking about... at all. So what you're saying is that boost spike, wastegates stuck closed, a good wastegate that's simply too small and causes boost creep, malfunctioning BOVs, cheap turbos grenading, faulty injectors, and tuning software that isn't up to par and leans out your AFR too much, blowing holes in your pistons only account for 10% of engine failure related to cheap turbo systems? Bulls**t.

There's a reason a new Garrett turbo costs upwards of $600 compared to $200 ebay units. There's a reason Tial wastegates are $250-$300 compared to the $100 ebay pieces. There's a reason a GReddy BOV costs $300 when put up against a $25 ebay knockoff. And what about Hondata? The s300 is $600 and you still have to pay to get a basemap tune, and then you have to pay even more to get the car dyno tuned after you limp to the shop on your basemap tune. What's an ebay chip running for? $50? And they're claiming that you don't need the car tuned afterwards?

Contrary to popular belief, you actually don't pay for a name. You pay for the extensive R&D, as well as strenuous Quality Control. Do you think the companies selling exclusively on ebay are capable of anything more than merely copying another company's design? What do you want to bet they don't even have a QC division?

And you can piece together a reliable turbo kit using used parts for $2k.


Or would you rather keep arguing? Any member that's been here for a while can vouch for me in the fact that I love arguing and have yet to lose an argument like this.
 

Last edited by reaper2022; 03-30-2009 at 10:06 AM.
  #10  
Old 03-30-2009, 11:52 AM
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less than 2k =D lolol im at 1200
 


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