My son has a 99 civic in which we are changing the upper rear camber arm to adjustable ones. Since the car has been lowered. I have gotten the two bolts that attach the arm to the body out, but the one that attaches the arm to the A frame is frozen. One bolt has already broken off. Is the nut part pressed into the A arm or welded to it. I am wondering if I can just cut it off and put a new one on or use a grade 8 nut and washer from the hardware store. Anyone have this problem before? Thanks

 

Anyone? The threaded so called nut since it doesn't have any flat sides to it. Is it part of the LCA? Have you guys just ground it off?

 

If you don't get any answers, stop by your local Honda dealership and tell them you need to get one of the bolts. Ask if you can see the exploded view of the camber arm; the parts person generally has no problem showing you the drawing.

Good luck!

 

This drawing?



Well, looks like there's just a bolt. the nut must be welded to the trailing arm. Don't torch it out, there's a bushing there.

You probably don't want to hear this now, but that camber adjuster is totally unnecessary. You can adjust your rear camber with a few washers...

 

DITO... what he said

you can adjust your camber with jus a few washers behind the brace like so.....



otherwise ya got some work to do
i just had to doo PREATY much the same thing but with my TOE adjuster arm... whats happened is the bolt has SEIZED to the inner steel bushing shaft...
with mine i man handled that sucker so it busted the rubber bushing apart from the arm and allowed the bolt to be unscrewed alittle... unfortunatly it also bent back the shielding as well cause the bushing was FROZEN to the bolt... BUT no big deal... nothing some pliers and a rubber hammer couldnt bent right back to normal.. then i used a cut off wheel as close to the END of the bushings as i could and then jsut cut out both sides.... then with some visgrips just clamp them onto the threaded bolt thats still in the nut and just screw it out.... the rest just falls away


BUT if you havent busted the bushing yet..... just do the washers trick!
how much lower are the springs designed to drop the car? mines lowered i believe 1.9 in rear and i used 3 washers. so 2-3 washers should do it.... just take some tools with ya to alignement shop just incase ya didnt use enough or need to take out one...
tho one thing ya MIGHT wanna do is take one bolt with you to the hardware store and buy a slightly longer bolts mines preaty short but holds with no problem alittle longer would just be extra security...





this is what preaty much had to do to cut out my seized bolt....




JUST REMEMBER THIS TIME you instal the NEW bolt and arm... BE SURE TO USE SOME ANTISEIZE over the bolts threads and shaft... cause the shafts the part that usualy sticks....

 

I have read about the washer trick but the dr. side rear was badly out whack. I decided to go with wicked adjustable rear camber kit so that there won't be any guess work in it on how many washers to use. They're just like my Hotchkis tie rod endadjusters for m 69Camaro. The alignment shop can adjust it perfectly. By the picture item 9 just shows a bolt going through a bushing. I would not think the bushing is threaded. By item number 8 where the camber arm would mount up (bolt through the bushing and frame work) does anyone know if that round shaped nut is welded to the framework? Or has mine just rusted to the frame.

 

the bolt that goes thru the arm has a nut built ONTO the spindle assembly... its not removable! but like i said.... youll have to cut it out then....
get a LARGE break bar and MAN HANDLE THAT BOLT so ya got a few good turns outta it that will also BEND open those metal spots dont worry they will close right back up when you instal the new arm and bolt. WHICH I RECOMEND BUYING A NEW BOLT cause well... your gonna cut up the old one
use a sawzaw or just a hack saw first cut off the back side of the bolt.... then cut off the other side as close to the bolt head BUT on the inside as close as ya can to just the bushing. then the bolt head SHOULD fall right out along with that center section you cut out..... and then with some GOOD VISGRIPS simply clamp them onto the threaded bolt that goes thru the nut and just turn it out.... cause most likely ITS not frozen... its all in that bushing!!!! but the bushing out and she should turn right out!


if ya have to make it easier just bust out the sawzaw or cutoff wheel to cut off the arm first and that way you can easily cut away the bushing...
serveral ways to get it cut out.... ive heard you can torch the bolt to get it unstuck BUT my dad wouldnt let me torch it in the shop... said to much smoke from the bushing which is also poisness... so thats when i tried the cuting it out... which worked great without the mess!!!!

 

That's all I needed to know was wether or not the nut was built into the assembly or not. The head of the bolt has all ready snapped off. So my only option is to cut/grind off the nut. Hit the frame with a litte paint to keep it from rusting. Then usng a new bolt, washer and nut when I install the adjustable camber arm. Thanks.