Well i just went ahead and ordered all new brake parts. Please review my list and met me know if it was a good buy. Please note that I dont do any racing just drive a little fast from time to time. Im going to add the brake lines a bit down the road due to money constraints.

Ill probably do the front brakes this weekend comming up since im swapping both CV joints out this weekend.

Ill probably take the rear set in to be done at a shop and have them turn the rear drums maybee even just replace those while im at it as well.

Plus ill need a alingment too since ill be doing front end work and i just put rims on the car about 3 weeks ago.

Rotors:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...amp;perfCode=P

Front Pads:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...amp;perfCode=S

Rear Shoes:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...amp;perfCode=P

 

very nice list. good choices for a street setup. brake lines are not needed unless it's a trackcar, plus, you know they don't increase braking power, right? all they do is reduce brake fade.

 

Ok i feel better now.

Yes this is just a street car with the occasional run over 70mph were some good solid breaking is really good to have.

Yeah i know the brake lines wont make the breakes work "better" just will give less fade. Im pretty sure i have some fade now but its more that i have some crappy brakes on there now.

The one thing that i found a bit strange was that Tirerack didnt seem to offer new rear "drums", like i got the shoes but not the drum part, im pretty sure mine can be machined but if they had them new and were not to much i would have just grabbed new ones since new is normally better then reman's.

Plus i figured that lines are something that i can swap out later without really changing anything and not something that would make me have to take my car apart.

 

Good brake hoses don't really reduce fade. Quality surfaces (pads, shoes, rotors, drums) and venting do that. Good hoses, like teflon-lined braided stainless ones, improve pedal feel and firmness of braking because they don't expand as easily as rubber hoses. While this won't likely improve the braking performance much on something like a Civic, it makes it possible toapply enoughforce to lock the stock brakes on aWrangler running 36s. The main improvement on a Civic would be the feel.
To change them, you willpossibly want to remove the wheels for easier access (not always), you will need the proper flarenut wrench, and you will need to bleed the brakes afterwards.

I would guess that performance drums are hard to find because the best upgrade for Civic rear brakes is often a disc conversion.

Considering how cheap they are, I don't even have drums or rotors turned. I just buy new ones. Turning rotors is fine, I guess, but I wouldn't even consider turning drums. If you do that, the curvature of the shoes no longer reallyfits properly inside the drum. If you ever take a goodlook at how the shoes seat against the drums' inner surfaces, you'll notice how you reduce the actual braking surface area if you turn drums instead of replacing them. This is a non-issue with rotors, as long as they meet the minimum specs.
For new drums, just buy some from the local store. If you want better rear brakes than that, convert todiscs.

 

Kommando:

i think your right about the rear drums issue and when i take the car into the shop i will just ask for anew set of drums as well. What im i looking at paying for just the drums themselves?

 

I just wanted to thank all of you who put in some input. I did both my CV joints and my front breaks this weekend with the parts listed above and its like a night and day diffrence.

The old pads and rotors actually looked as if they were in good shape but they must have just been the crapiest compunds because they didnt work.

This new brembo set up feels almost as if i had disc's all around and I didnt even do the back drums at all.

I followed the break in directions listed on the tire rack site then the next day made a 200 mile journey home from PA with some decent breaking (100mph down to 40 at times) and i didnt even feel a tad bit of fade. This has to be the best investment i have ever made for any of my cars.

Next ill do a ilignment and wheel balance just to make sure everything is lined up correctly...

 

I have to replace the brake pads on my 98 LX. Is Brembo the recommended brand? Pads from the dealer where 75, and Brembo is on sale at TireRack for 43, with 7 shipping. I don't do any racing or anything like that, just commuting.

Thanks for all the help!

 

i used the bremob pads with teh bremob blanks and they are awesome. I didnt even get to do the shoes in the back and the cars stops like 100 times better than they did with the crappy pads that were on there before.

I can actually lock the breaks up on the car now.

 

I am not going to be able to get the blanks for a few weeks due to cash flow issues. Is it OK if I put the new pads (pulled trigger on the brembo) on my old rotors for now, or should I wait until I can get the new blanks and install the pads then?

I am not really concerned with saving time or convience since I enjoy working on the car.

Thanks!

 

Install it all at once.