Lowering..
What should I do? I'm not really worried about racing so I don't know if I should do the Adjustable Coilovers? Don't really need the improved steering, And they cost more.. Should I just get lowering springs? I need advice.. please help.
Joe
Joe
alright guys heres the thing.
so you wanna get your car lowered? if you do there are different routes.
springs + shocks
coil overs, etc
What i did and its been working great are:
eibach pro kit (lowered about 2 inches). Was fine for about a couple months. Youre gonna need to replace your shocks eventually. good tips are buying kyb oem replacements or get some stiffer ones, tokico blue hp, etc. All depends on what you want. DO NOT cut your springs, this is stupid
so you wanna get your car lowered? if you do there are different routes.
springs + shocks
coil overs, etc
What i did and its been working great are:
eibach pro kit (lowered about 2 inches). Was fine for about a couple months. Youre gonna need to replace your shocks eventually. good tips are buying kyb oem replacements or get some stiffer ones, tokico blue hp, etc. All depends on what you want. DO NOT cut your springs, this is stupid
Coilovers won't do anything for steering... that's all up to your steering ratio, determined by the steering rack.
The only real advantage to coilovers on a street car is the adjustable ride height; it lets you fine-tune the ride height to exactly where you want it at all four corners (which also means you can have the driver's side slightly higher so it levels out when you get in the car) and also lets you raise the car for winter and lower it in the summer if you live in an area where snow is a concern. Lowering springs are much cheaper than any half-decent coilover setup. Just remember that any time you play with ride height (ie, lowering a car or adjusting coilovers) you'll need at least a toe alignment. A lot of people seem to think camber will destroy tires; in my experience (-3.0° camber at all four corners for 10,000 miles on new tires with no discernible camber wear) all that's needed is a toe alignment.
marc, I'd like to point out that if a strut is an oem replacement, it will still eventually start leaking any time a car is lowered. Tokico HPs are an oem replacement; they're fine for something extremely soft-sprung like Tein's H- and S-tech springs, but with anything stiffer than that (pretty much anything on the market) I'd find something a little stiffer. Believe me, I know all about struts leaking... I replaced two leaking struts in a year and a half and sold the car with a third one starting to leak; that's what happens when you decide to dump a car
(also, cutting springs is a legitimate method [though a little old-school] of lowering a car if done properly and done on standard-rate coil springs. If someone were to feel motivated enough, he/she could actually calculate the new spring rate of cut springs)
The only real advantage to coilovers on a street car is the adjustable ride height; it lets you fine-tune the ride height to exactly where you want it at all four corners (which also means you can have the driver's side slightly higher so it levels out when you get in the car) and also lets you raise the car for winter and lower it in the summer if you live in an area where snow is a concern. Lowering springs are much cheaper than any half-decent coilover setup. Just remember that any time you play with ride height (ie, lowering a car or adjusting coilovers) you'll need at least a toe alignment. A lot of people seem to think camber will destroy tires; in my experience (-3.0° camber at all four corners for 10,000 miles on new tires with no discernible camber wear) all that's needed is a toe alignment.
marc, I'd like to point out that if a strut is an oem replacement, it will still eventually start leaking any time a car is lowered. Tokico HPs are an oem replacement; they're fine for something extremely soft-sprung like Tein's H- and S-tech springs, but with anything stiffer than that (pretty much anything on the market) I'd find something a little stiffer. Believe me, I know all about struts leaking... I replaced two leaking struts in a year and a half and sold the car with a third one starting to leak; that's what happens when you decide to dump a car

(also, cutting springs is a legitimate method [though a little old-school] of lowering a car if done properly and done on standard-rate coil springs. If someone were to feel motivated enough, he/she could actually calculate the new spring rate of cut springs)
From your limited information given, it sounds like a pretty mild lowering spring would do fine, but there may be some more options depending on your budget and what you want out of your car.
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