stech
#2
i cannt remember BUT when you remove your stock springs. simply match them up! look at the springs ends. on one pair the ends are cut straight 90degrees and the other pair have a sliced smoothly for a flat surface. simply match them to the stock springs and your golden.
i also dont know WHY they dont label them from the factory but what ever.... they are pretty nice springs. i enjoyed them i just wanted lower only reason i switched them out.
i also dont know WHY they dont label them from the factory but what ever.... they are pretty nice springs. i enjoyed them i just wanted lower only reason i switched them out.
#4
o sorry to hear. im sure someone else will chime in that knows which spring slant goes where.
heres the only pics i have of mine
http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...20TEIN%20drop/
only pics i have left from my old install. hopefully you can match them up if no one else pops in and helps.
heres the only pics i have of mine
http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...20TEIN%20drop/
only pics i have left from my old install. hopefully you can match them up if no one else pops in and helps.
#6
The thicker/stiffer springs go in the front since that's where most of the weight is concentrated. In this pic, the front springs are in the box. You can see that they are beefier than the ones in the back.
#10
how did the bushings look? and when does it click? turning, hiting a dip, hiting a bump and turning.
could be the bushing on the strut and control arm. or could be a worn balljoint that just got more obvious after the drop.
or you simply didnt tighten every bolt......
and when you tighten all the bolts its best to have the weight of the car on the control arm... simply use a jack to put just enough pressure on the control arm so it lightly lifts the car off the jack stand and then tighten down all the bolts.
problem with tightening the bolts with the suspension at full droop is when they get compressed from the weight of the car and even hitting a bump which compresses the strut/spring and since your bushings where tightened at full droop it will try and rip the bushing and depending how old the bushings are they can go bad very fast.
it makes sense really because the car will sit on its wheels most the time so the bushings are at rest and not being twisted so it has alot less travel/twisting to make them last along longer!
at least for stock bushings! now if you have those firm urethane bushings with the metal sleeves then they are not molded to the bushing/rubber so they cannt be torn.
could be the bushing on the strut and control arm. or could be a worn balljoint that just got more obvious after the drop.
or you simply didnt tighten every bolt......
and when you tighten all the bolts its best to have the weight of the car on the control arm... simply use a jack to put just enough pressure on the control arm so it lightly lifts the car off the jack stand and then tighten down all the bolts.
problem with tightening the bolts with the suspension at full droop is when they get compressed from the weight of the car and even hitting a bump which compresses the strut/spring and since your bushings where tightened at full droop it will try and rip the bushing and depending how old the bushings are they can go bad very fast.
it makes sense really because the car will sit on its wheels most the time so the bushings are at rest and not being twisted so it has alot less travel/twisting to make them last along longer!
at least for stock bushings! now if you have those firm urethane bushings with the metal sleeves then they are not molded to the bushing/rubber so they cannt be torn.