I replaced a steering boot that was torn. It was on the left side. I bought the part online for $16. I figured that if I have to remove the tie rod end, I'll just replace the tie rod boots with polyurethane ones, and if I have to rent a tie rod puller, I'll replace the ball joint boots too. Energy Suspension polyurethane parts were $15.
While replacing the ball joint boots, I found out two of them were torn so replacing them was good. The polyurethane boots don't need the circlip so I chucked those. The job requires some muscle to get the ball joint end back in in order to get the castle nut screwed on.
I had to remove the left tie rod to get the new steering boot on. This was difficult. The nut on the middle tie rod was on tight. After I loosened it (actually turned clock-wise), then I could remove the tie rod (turned counter clock-wise).
Removing the old steering boot (attached to the rack and pinion steering unit) wasn't easy so I just ripped it up and pulled it apart in chunks. Getting the new steering boot on was a bit difficult. There's not alot of room for your hands to work. There's also a little hose that attaches to it. I don't know what it is but I reconnected it to the new boot.
After I was done, I noticed that the steering wheel was a little off center and turned to the left. So, I went back in and tightened the tie rod (turned clock-wise) to adjust the steering wheel to move counter clock-wise. It worked. I should have measure the tie rod nut's distance from the end so I wouldn't have had to do this. I eye-balled about have far it was. I was pretty close. I only had to spin it two revolutions.
For jacking point, I put the jack under the body about 8 inches inward from the wheel well on the floor pan. There's a hole there and it was solid area. I put a jack in the usual jacking point.
I don't notice any huge difference in steering or suspension with the polyurethane tie-rod and ball joint boots. It was about a three hour job.