yay! *problem solved*
#1
08-20-2007, 01:36 PM
yay! *problem solved*
i love new stuff
and if ur wondering what that claw looking tool is, its a trailing arm bushing puller
bought new Energy Suspension bushings. their a HUGE pita to install so i just bought new OEM ones and put them in for the mean time. test drove it after installing and feels really good. very responsive turning. i may install the ES ones later on once i get the rubber off the old bushings, if i can..[:@]
im about to head out to Advanced Auto to pick up spring comressors and hopefully have all this stuff installed tonight
and if ur wondering what that claw looking tool is, its a trailing arm bushing puller
bought new Energy Suspension bushings. their a HUGE pita to install so i just bought new OEM ones and put them in for the mean time. test drove it after installing and feels really good. very responsive turning. i may install the ES ones later on once i get the rubber off the old bushings, if i can..[:@]
im about to head out to Advanced Auto to pick up spring comressors and hopefully have all this stuff installed tonight
#3
08-20-2007, 03:59 PM
RE: yay!
Koni yellow sports and Ground Control coilovers(GC uses Eibach springs) with custom rates at450in/lbs front and 550in/lbs rear.
aaaaaaand yeah already a problem, shoulda expected something to give me a headache...i never know Koni didnt build the shocks with the perch that the shock sits on the damper fork with the brake line mounts. seems like u have to break off those from the old shocks and mount them on these?? wtf is that all about??? just makes installationmore time consuming and troublesome
anyone whos worked with these, how did u go about breaking that mount thingy off the oem shocks? seems like their welded on there pretty tight and that taking a hammer to it like the instructions say may not do it..
i assembled it fairly quickly to get an idea of where everything goes and whatnot. i kno the dust boot isnt there, i need to drill the hole that the shaft goes thru a lil larger. but is this how it should be assembled?
any help would be greatly appreciated
aaaaaaand yeah already a problem, shoulda expected something to give me a headache...i never know Koni didnt build the shocks with the perch that the shock sits on the damper fork with the brake line mounts. seems like u have to break off those from the old shocks and mount them on these?? wtf is that all about??? just makes installationmore time consuming and troublesome
anyone whos worked with these, how did u go about breaking that mount thingy off the oem shocks? seems like their welded on there pretty tight and that taking a hammer to it like the instructions say may not do it..
i assembled it fairly quickly to get an idea of where everything goes and whatnot. i kno the dust boot isnt there, i need to drill the hole that the shaft goes thru a lil larger. but is this how it should be assembled?
any help would be greatly appreciated
#4
08-20-2007, 05:15 PM
RE: yay!
been doing some research on this, apparently u dont need the brake line bracket. the damper fork pinch bolt is what really hold up the shock.
qutoed from another site:
it makes sense to me and i was thinking that when i first read the instructions and was looking at the damper fork. i'll give it a shot tomorrow and see how things go. i'm gena try to get one of my friends over and try to get him to take pics so i can write a DIY.
still, any input is greatly appreciated!
qutoed from another site:
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
still, any input is greatly appreciated!
#5
08-21-2007, 07:33 AM
RE: yay!
Awesome gear dude...happy for your upgrade. Good luck with those problems, I know I wouldn't want to do a suspension install again...
#6
08-21-2007, 02:50 PM
RE: yay!
Nice! For a long time I have been looking into getting yellows, around here they charge me about $700-800 for a set, so its on the wish list.
#7
08-21-2007, 03:14 PM
RE: yay!
ORIGINAL: mill$civic
Nice! For a long time I have been looking into getting yellows, around here they charge me about $700-800 for a set, so its on the wish list.
Nice! For a long time I have been looking into getting yellows, around here they charge me about $700-800 for a set, so its on the wish list.
pic of how she sits now
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_47.../tm.htm#472216
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