Hey guys ive done my searches but im not satified with my results. I just replaced my slave cylinder in my Y8, was leaking. Prior tranny was shifting fine not issues. I changed my slave cylinder and now 3rd gear grinds, i bled it ans the pedal feels harder than before. All searchers say synchros but it makes now sense. Help!!!!

 

makes perfect sense. you cleaned out all the tranny fluid, and put in brand new stuff, which makes everything shiny and new, causing what little filament that was holding the tranny together before to go bad. Usually with a car, unless you are already having issues, or less than say 100k miles, i don't mess with the fluid.

but basically the new fluid cleaned everything out, and the gunk keeping the syncros working correctly was removed to, and now you have a grinding noise.

sorry dude. at least it isn't a 6-speed T-56 which costs a solid 1k to remove and fix. (ask me how i know)

 

I didnt change the tranny fluid till last night only slave cylinder and it was grinding prior to new fluid right after the slave was put in

 

you replaced the fluid didn't you? or did you recycle the old stuff back in? Again, You replaced the slave (which requires removing the tranny correct? not sure, i know i did on my GTO) and that is what caused it grind. When you replaced the fluid, did you check to see if it had any metal shavings in it? (I.E. did it have a shiny look to it?) possibly take a magnet to the it and see if there is an over abundance of metal in it?

just trying to help, i am hoping that someone will chime in here one way or another.

 

nope the slave is on the housing of the tranny no need to change tranny fluid, when i did drain it , it looked fine and no metal.so yeah im alil lost. i have heard that not fully bleeding will cause a grind but my clutch is the stiffest its ever been

 

anyone else? any tranny gurus out there?

 

I was talking with my old man, and he seems to think you should double check the slave cylinder, and make sure it is mounted correctly, if it was mounted at an angle, it would be able to engage/disengage correctly, causing the syncros to grind.

he also mentioned that there is a possibly that the master cylinder is now bad, due to the bleeding of the lines getting the air out of it, causing the seals in the master to go out..

he also mentioned that there is a possibility the slave itsself is bad, and that is what the issue is.

The rule of thumb, is if something is not broken before you replace it, and then you have issues afterwards, more than likely, it is something that you did yourself, so try replacing the slave cylinder first, and go from there.

hope that helps.


and not likely to get much more info on here, it is a good forum, but unless it has something to do with teh rimz or teh stereoz, not much help.

 

It could be just a coincident that it starting grinding as you replace the slave, as your tranny already has sign of wear, or just change out to another slave and see.

 

Alright lets break this down in to a few points.

1. Your slave cannot be mounted incorrectly, the two bolts will line it up fine with the clutch fork.
2. If your slave was leaking you would be more prone to grind gears with it being problematic since it could limit the amount of travel in the slave and not fully disengaging the clutch.
3. It is likely that you'll have a 3rd gear grind if you beat your car and shift hard...single cams aren't built for abuse, although they take it well.
4. Check for any trans leaks, I have one from my axle seal since I put a new axle in... as my trans fluid gets down lower I'll start grinding in to 2nd at high rpm, fill my trans back up at work and shifts smooth again.
5. Drain your trans fluid out and refill it with GM Syncromesh, their manual trans fluid is known to cure grinds for a while. Single cam trannies take 1.8 quarts I believe, so buy a transfer pump and go to town, remember to replace the crush washers.
6. Try double clutching the car from second to third, if you shift at 4k, go up to wherever you shift in 2nd, put it in neutral with the clutch out and rev it to it like 2k, clutch in, and put it in to 3rd. With the clutch our and in neutral revving it spins the internals of the trans making it easier for the main and countershaft to mesh, if you can walk it in to gears this way it is def. syncros.

 

I resent that. There's some very informative people on here.


Hmm... usually a transmission grind gets BETTER when you change fluid (as long as you're replacing with Honda MTF or equivalent).

I'm not too much help on hydro clutch components... my buddy's integra had the dreaded 3rd gear grind, we changed the black fluid out for MTF and it quit grinding. That was a year ago, still good today. This sounds like possibly the clutch isn't fully engaging, low fluid in the hydro lines, not enough travel of the clutch fork? I'm looking it from a brake component view, diagnosing it similarly... maybe air just needs to be bled?