Automatic shift solenoids
#11
If there's a code, the scan tool should pull it up even if the CEL doesn't work.
Here's how to test the CEL: Turning the key to ON(II) should illuminate the CEL for 2 seconds, if there are no CEL codes.
I'm not sure what an overheating light is? Do you mean low oil pressure light? And the low fuel indicator may not come on until the tank has less than an gallon left.
Here's how to test the CEL: Turning the key to ON(II) should illuminate the CEL for 2 seconds, if there are no CEL codes.
I'm not sure what an overheating light is? Do you mean low oil pressure light? And the low fuel indicator may not come on until the tank has less than an gallon left.
#12
ill verify the CEL later and get back to you. also, i had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and my temp gauge went all the way up to H and no light came on (i thought there is usually a light that comeson when you overheat) i could be wrong. and ive had issues where i couldnt start my car cuz i didnt have enough gas...no fuel light warning. now i dont let it get that low. thanks for your help btw.
Low fuel warning light: Ground the warning light wire near the fuel pump above the gas tank. If the dash light does not illuminate, then the dash bulb or wire may be bad. If it lights up, then you may need to replace the sending unit.
#13
Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.
I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.
Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.
Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
#14
Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.
I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.
Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.
Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
#16
The CEL turns on for 2 seconds and then stays off while the car is running?
That means the ECU is getting the proper readings from the shift solenoid. Changing the fluid could help it. I've heard of it taking a couple times for it to snap out of it.
Otherwise, it's probably time to start looking for a transmission.
That means the ECU is getting the proper readings from the shift solenoid. Changing the fluid could help it. I've heard of it taking a couple times for it to snap out of it.
Otherwise, it's probably time to start looking for a transmission.
#18
Short story: no.
#19
LAte to the party...
OK so I bought a used 96 civic DX with Automatic tranny & this forum is very helpful. Thank you to everyone who participates with helping us!!
Now the problem is similar to others.. so I have taken off the shift solenoid & the wire mesh was clean & the tranny oil was changed a week ago or so. I am about to take off the Linear solenoid & clean it. Since there is no screen and just the valve holes etc.. When I check the solenoid by connecting power to the leads... is it ok to use a direct connection to the battery??? No danger to damaging the solenoid?!! If it does move the valves what can I use to clean the holes etc??
Since the tranny fluid (HONDA FLUID) is still kind of new can I drain it into a clean container then filter it through ... say a coffee filter to catch any metal shavings or dirt etc then reinstall the fluid??
The last time I changed the fluid it did help the shifting but, I still get a delay in the shifting into overdrive on the freeway & the delayed shift from 2-3 does not happen as often as it did before the fluid change. Thanks in advance everyone!! Jason
Now the problem is similar to others.. so I have taken off the shift solenoid & the wire mesh was clean & the tranny oil was changed a week ago or so. I am about to take off the Linear solenoid & clean it. Since there is no screen and just the valve holes etc.. When I check the solenoid by connecting power to the leads... is it ok to use a direct connection to the battery??? No danger to damaging the solenoid?!! If it does move the valves what can I use to clean the holes etc??
Since the tranny fluid (HONDA FLUID) is still kind of new can I drain it into a clean container then filter it through ... say a coffee filter to catch any metal shavings or dirt etc then reinstall the fluid??
The last time I changed the fluid it did help the shifting but, I still get a delay in the shifting into overdrive on the freeway & the delayed shift from 2-3 does not happen as often as it did before the fluid change. Thanks in advance everyone!! Jason
#20
2007 Honda Civic Ex
No CEL, I havent noticed any D4 flashing. Fluid is at the Bottom Line (within spec). it flares from 1-2 and a little from 2-3. sometimes it will downshift hard when I brake quickly from higher speeds (35-40mph). fluid is fairly clean, ive drain/filled during last 2 oil changes...about to do it again this week.
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