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Automatic shift solenoids

  #11  
Old 03-03-2010, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RonJ View Post
If there's a code, the scan tool should pull it up even if the CEL doesn't work.

Here's how to test the CEL: Turning the key to ON(II) should illuminate the CEL for 2 seconds, if there are no CEL codes.

I'm not sure what an overheating light is? Do you mean low oil pressure light? And the low fuel indicator may not come on until the tank has less than an gallon left.
ill verify the CEL later and get back to you. also, i had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and my temp gauge went all the way up to H and no light came on (i thought there is usually a light that comeson when you overheat) i could be wrong. and ive had issues where i couldnt start my car cuz i didnt have enough gas...no fuel light warning. now i dont let it get that low. thanks for your help btw.
 
  #12  
Old 03-03-2010, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 View Post
ill verify the CEL later and get back to you. also, i had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and my temp gauge went all the way up to H and no light came on (i thought there is usually a light that comeson when you overheat) i could be wrong. and ive had issues where i couldnt start my car cuz i didnt have enough gas...no fuel light warning. now i dont let it get that low. thanks for your help btw.
There's no overheating warning light. You must watch the dash temp gauge. This is important as severe overheating like you mentioned may destroy the engine.

Low fuel warning light: Ground the warning light wire near the fuel pump above the gas tank. If the dash light does not illuminate, then the dash bulb or wire may be bad. If it lights up, then you may need to replace the sending unit.
 
  #13  
Old 03-03-2010, 09:46 AM
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Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.

I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.

Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
 
  #14  
Old 03-03-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by norbster86 View Post
Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.

I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.

Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.
really? for $50? lol. even so, its probably gonna be a "bad" tranny...with the same problem. then I would have spent all that time. ill check it out. maybe I can get a used Shift Solenoid that works. im gonna see if i can pull any codes in a bit.
 
  #15  
Old 03-03-2010, 04:20 PM
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CEL works. Ill see what happens after i change the tranny fluid again this weekend. Doing oil change, spark plugs and rear brakes also.
 
  #16  
Old 03-03-2010, 05:15 PM
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The CEL turns on for 2 seconds and then stays off while the car is running?

That means the ECU is getting the proper readings from the shift solenoid. Changing the fluid could help it. I've heard of it taking a couple times for it to snap out of it.

Otherwise, it's probably time to start looking for a transmission.
 
  #17  
Old 03-04-2010, 05:44 AM
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yah CEL physically works, i even hooked up my scan tool and there were no pending codes or anything. would doing an idle relearn after a flush do anything?
 
  #18  
Old 03-04-2010, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 View Post
yah CEL physically works, i even hooked up my scan tool and there were no pending codes or anything. would doing an idle relearn after a flush do anything?
Short story: no.
 
  #19  
Old 03-01-2012, 09:18 PM
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OK so I bought a used 96 civic DX with Automatic tranny & this forum is very helpful. Thank you to everyone who participates with helping us!!
Now the problem is similar to others.. so I have taken off the shift solenoid & the wire mesh was clean & the tranny oil was changed a week ago or so. I am about to take off the Linear solenoid & clean it. Since there is no screen and just the valve holes etc.. When I check the solenoid by connecting power to the leads... is it ok to use a direct connection to the battery??? No danger to damaging the solenoid?!! If it does move the valves what can I use to clean the holes etc??
Since the tranny fluid (HONDA FLUID) is still kind of new can I drain it into a clean container then filter it through ... say a coffee filter to catch any metal shavings or dirt etc then reinstall the fluid??
The last time I changed the fluid it did help the shifting but, I still get a delay in the shifting into overdrive on the freeway & the delayed shift from 2-3 does not happen as often as it did before the fluid change. Thanks in advance everyone!! Jason
 
  #20  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:31 AM
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Default 2007 Honda Civic Ex

Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 View Post
No CEL, I havent noticed any D4 flashing. Fluid is at the Bottom Line (within spec). it flares from 1-2 and a little from 2-3. sometimes it will downshift hard when I brake quickly from higher speeds (35-40mph). fluid is fairly clean, ive drain/filled during last 2 oil changes...about to do it again this week.
Im having the same problem (hard downshift when braking quickly) it only does it between 35-40mph. I also hear a clunk/pull sometimes when I slow down to almost a complete stop and than accelerate. Did you solve your cars problem?
 
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