After lurking for some time i've encountered a problem i can't solve with a simple search....

Noticed some goofy pedal action -sort of like there was something grating when i let off the pedal about 1 week ago right after i repaired the Main Relay - Just droped some solder on the dry leads and off i went. Mad props for those who've discussed this before me. Very helpful.

On my way home several days ago my pedal died on a downshift. No clunk or grind. Just felt like the cable snapped in mid push.

A quick check with a buddy and there's nothing wrong with the cable. A check with a wire revealed that the shift forks just slide ineffectually.

So i drive the car 20 miles home running stop signs and shifting with the motor and rolling speed when i can. (REv Rev rev.... POP! right into gear.) Trans never ground once in 5 or 6 shifts.

Now its in pieces in my barn and i can't figgure it out.
The clutch is just over 1 year old.
There is normal wear from when i installed it 10K ago.
I though maby the release bearing was bad but it seems A OK.
The clutch shows very little wear despite my driving.
The pressure plate looks sort of screwy but i can't imagine that its toast. Just a little more wear than i expected on the fingers...
Shift fork behind the release bearing is in good shape as is the spring that draws the release bearing back.
The bearing itself seems good and i've compaired all the parts to the old clutch which i still have.

Can the pressure plate get jammed? And would i still be able to get it in gear if it was?
Hope i kept the post legible for y'all
Any ideas?
I can and will take pictures if anyone wants to see something.

 

I found the problem... I think.. The spring that sits beneath the forks and clips to the back of the release bearing has a broken arm.

I could have sworn that i detached the spring from both sides but it was dark and i must have missed it.

I can't find this spring for sale at any of the auto****ters online stores.

And i can't figgure out how to remove the shift forks. I did remove a 12MM bolt from the center of the forks but it dosn't want to move out like i and the hayes manual think it should.
----------> Any advise? currently soaking in PB Blaster <-------------

Explains the slight excess wear on the pressure plate fingers though.

Photos anyone?

 

I believe that the fork has a spring on the back side that snaps over a ball that it pivots on.
It should just pop off. The 12mm bolt holds the bearing assmbly so it will pivot when the fork
is moved. With the bolt out, the shaft it threads into should be free to slide completly out.
That makes it easier to put that spring in that pulls on the bearing.

Hope that helps.

 

Yeah it was all crusted on there... I broke it loose with Blaster and got it off. New spring from Honda is due in tomorrow. I went to autozone with the old clutch and they gave me a NEW clutch. No questions asked. All i can figgure is that the pressure plate was bad. All that spring does is draw the release bearing back. And it was still working with only 1 arm hooked to the back. The 12MM bolt actually retains the fork itself and keeps its length of travel even. The release bearing is just along for the ride and only held by that spring.

Thanks for the RE: though. At least someone out there spoke up.

Back to my origional question.. Can that pressure plate fail? Has anyone ever seen this?

 

it can happen. if you just happened to get a bad part. i had a spring break out of a clutch that still had decent material left, and it locked the flywheels and clutch plate together. i had to get it home the same way as you. but i bypassed my clutch safety switch a few years ago (remote start on a manual, bad idea. dont ask.) so i could just crank on it to get it to leave a light, then rev-match it to shift. but i had to go like 8 miles like that.[&:]

 

Nice Modd LOL... I thought about twisting the clutch start safety wires together but never did it. Would make it nice for the next time this clutch fails. Just drive it around with the starter

Just an update and a break for me... Its hot here and the car is almost back together. Just suspension, cooling system and fluids left to do. New clutch works good now.

The pressure plate was bad. If you've bought a DynaPak clutch from autozone you're probably screwed. The pressure plate has been redesigined but looks nowhere near as tough as the OEM i first removed. I suspect that this one will fail in a similar fashion.

My personal recomendation for anyone replacing a clutch is to buy a stage 1 and never worry about it again..

Anyhow my problem is now solved.