well my valves have been ticking for a long time and its been really bugging me, i just had to adjust the valves and now the car is ready to hit the dyno.... i was pretty intimidated to do my valve adjustment for the first time and as i was reading the chilton book it was only showing how to do the intake side... Well i stumbled my way through it and got everything all adjusted like it said and then decided to take a crack at the exhaust side all by myself without any instructions.. figure out the positions to adjust the valves and what not and then about 1.5 hours later the car was back together and started back up.... OMG she purrs like a kitten now with a slight humm from the valves but NO ticking noise....i am so thrilled that i didnt spend 300 bucks at the dealership to adjust them and they would of probably screwed them up... well for anybody that is wondering if they can adjust the valves by them selfs it was extremely easy just need a valve lash tool...

 

Hell yeah man, that's awesome. Congrats!


any chance of getting a DIY?

 

Is the process a lot different from a pushrod engine?

On all the motors I've done, you just set the engine to TDC and 180* from TDC (half the valves at tdc, and the other half at opposite) and use a feeler gauge under the rocker.

 

basicly, all what i did was... this is for d15b8 and d15b7 engines, d16z6 engines adjust the same, just different how you line the cam gear up, if you are unsure how to do this dont take my advice.

1-took the valve cover off
2-removed cam gear cover
3-put a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned counterclockwise
4-look at the cam gear and align the two horizontal marks with the surface of the cylinder head., and the "up" mark facing straight up.
5-adjusted the intake valves on cylinder #1 inbetwwen .007 and .009, unscrew the tightening nut with a screw driver holding the adjuster screw still.. gonna take some work to break loose one of these bolts(took some skin off when i did a few).also inside the distributor cap the rotor should be pointing to the number 1 spark plug wire. Use the feeler gauge and slid it inbetween the valve and the rocker while tightening down the adjuster screw with the screw driver until you feel a slight drag on the feel gauge, (dont pinch it). just a slight drag. once this is acheived hold the screw driver in place and do not move it while you use a wrench to tighen the holding nut back down. once this is done recheck the gap using the feel gauge to make sure you didnt do it to tight or to loose..if it is not adjusted properly reloosen and tighten down until achieved vavlve clearence.
6.- rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt counterclockwise 180 degrees,(the camshaft should turn 90 degrees).
7-you should now be on cylinder # 3 and the distribitor cap on spark plug wire # 3.
8- repeate process as step one.
9- rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt counterclockwise 180 degrees,(the camshaft should turn 90 degrees)
10- you should now be on cylinder # 4 and the distribitor cap on spark plug wire # 4.
11-repeate process as step one
12-rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt counterclockwise 180 degrees,(the camshaft should turn 90 degrees)
13-you should now be on cylinder # 2 and the distribitor cap on spark plug wire # 2
14-repeate process as step one
15- go around and double check everything onver again.
16- once everything is all tightened up put the valve cover,distributor cap and timing belt cover all back on the car, reinstall the spark plug wires and the engine should be ready to fire up.

 

sweet...good job...yeah definitly worth learning the stuff urself instead of having to pay hundreds for the dealers to do it...! again, good job....

 

Kewl, I'm gonna give it a go on my 1.4i Civic next week I think. The car now has 71k ('98 model) and has developed the notorious ticking from the cam followers. Shouldnt be too complex, but I will be following the Haynes Manual down to a 'T'.

Jobs for the next 2 weeks - Remove door cards and replace the window regulators (passenger side is Fubared).
- Install Sub/Amp combo (bday pressie from the GF)
- Check/adjust valve clearances
- Replace front brake pads (EBC ones going in!)
- Possibly replace front discs if theyre worn
- Oil and filter change

Jobs for the future - Buy/Install full catback exhaust system
- Buy/Install a decent lowering kit
- Tint windows

Anyone fancy donating to the 'Lets give her some love & affection' Charity fund? lol

=chris=

 

So adjusting just the intake valves does the trick for the exhaust valves as well?

So what exactly is stock spec? My truck called for .010 and .020 but I set them at .008 and .013 because tightening up the valves pepped the motor up a bit... I had seen some go as low as .005 and .010.

But I'm talking about diesel again...

You said between .007 and .009 but that is a pretty big range.

 

take it for granet those specs are for d15b7 and d15b8 engines, basicly how i adjusted the exhaust valves was i made sure the rocker was on the oposite side of the cam lobe and then adjusted those between .009 and .011. I just did the intake at .008 and the exhaust at .010.