AC Dilemma
#1
07-07-2014, 04:20 AM
AC Dilemma
Hi All,
Lately I have observed that my car AC behaving weirdly, it goes like this. I drive every day to work that's 80 km away when the temperature is around 40+ degree C so naturally the car will take time to cool the cabin since its parked in direct sunlight.
Now as far as I can remember earlier when I used to drive for about 15 mins the AC would start to blow sufficient cool air and the cycle would keep going on cooling the car properly such that my fingers in front of the AC would freeze.
Currently the thing is that when driving for about 15-20 mins the AC blows normal air then blows cold air, this cycle keeps on going, so its blows cold air for about 1 mins or less then there is normal air [NOT hot air, the skin can feel the air is not cold and not hot either] for 30-45 sec and then cold air again and it keeps on going on like this, and the funny thing is that once I'm about to reach my destination just then the AC blows Extremely cool air with the latter cycle.
I have checked the AC refrigerant which is fine as per the garage but I have a doubt that the compressor is weak but since the engine temp remains steady, I don't know.
Any guesses.
Thank You
Lately I have observed that my car AC behaving weirdly, it goes like this. I drive every day to work that's 80 km away when the temperature is around 40+ degree C so naturally the car will take time to cool the cabin since its parked in direct sunlight.
Now as far as I can remember earlier when I used to drive for about 15 mins the AC would start to blow sufficient cool air and the cycle would keep going on cooling the car properly such that my fingers in front of the AC would freeze.
Currently the thing is that when driving for about 15-20 mins the AC blows normal air then blows cold air, this cycle keeps on going, so its blows cold air for about 1 mins or less then there is normal air [NOT hot air, the skin can feel the air is not cold and not hot either] for 30-45 sec and then cold air again and it keeps on going on like this, and the funny thing is that once I'm about to reach my destination just then the AC blows Extremely cool air with the latter cycle.
I have checked the AC refrigerant which is fine as per the garage but I have a doubt that the compressor is weak but since the engine temp remains steady, I don't know.
Any guesses.
Thank You
#2
07-07-2014, 08:27 AM
When it is not cooling, pull over-- leaving the engine running and the A/C button pressed--, open the hood and look if the compressor is engaged, and also if the condenser fans are running.
If you find the fans running but the compressor is not turning, the compressor clutch gap may be too wide, which leads to inconsistent engagement especially when it is hot under the hood. This is a common problem (the clutch parts wear down, increasing the gap) but easily remedied by taking the clutch plate off and removing some of the shim washers that set the gap.
If you find the fans running but the compressor is not turning, the compressor clutch gap may be too wide, which leads to inconsistent engagement especially when it is hot under the hood. This is a common problem (the clutch parts wear down, increasing the gap) but easily remedied by taking the clutch plate off and removing some of the shim washers that set the gap.
#3
07-07-2014, 11:05 AM
When it is not cooling, pull over-- leaving the engine running and the A/C button pressed--, open the hood and look if the compressor is engaged, and also if the condenser fans are running.
If you find the fans running but the compressor is not turning, the compressor clutch gap may be too wide, which leads to inconsistent engagement especially when it is hot under the hood. This is a common problem (the clutch parts wear down, increasing the gap) but easily remedied by taking the clutch plate off and removing some of the shim washers that set the gap.
If you find the fans running but the compressor is not turning, the compressor clutch gap may be too wide, which leads to inconsistent engagement especially when it is hot under the hood. This is a common problem (the clutch parts wear down, increasing the gap) but easily remedied by taking the clutch plate off and removing some of the shim washers that set the gap.
Also should I specify this to the garage guy [just so he doesn't rip me off], or can I do it myself.
Extremely Thankful
#4
07-08-2014, 05:58 AM
So reading what you said again, it has kind of the opposite of the usual clutch problem, works when hot not when cold. Still, you should try to observe it when it is not working. Intermittent problems are really hard for a garage to diagnose, it may take a lot of test driving to get the problem to occur. So anything you can tell them about exactly what the car does when it doesn't work will help.
#5
07-08-2014, 02:42 PM
So reading what you said again, it has kind of the opposite of the usual clutch problem, works when hot not when cold. Still, you should try to observe it when it is not working. Intermittent problems are really hard for a garage to diagnose, it may take a lot of test driving to get the problem to occur. So anything you can tell them about exactly what the car does when it doesn't work will help.
I opened the hood after driving for about 15mins and put the vehicle on the side running, I didn't find anything stopped, the compressor was running and so was another component that has a belt running from the compressor on it, nothing out of the odd I could see, may be I didn't know where to look but I know how a compressor looks as I have seen online.
Thank You for your response.
#6
07-08-2014, 03:42 PM
Just to be clear, the big pulley on the compressor and the little idler pulley turn all the time the engine is running. The clutch plate is next to the compressor pulley-- it has 3 big rivets through it in a triangle pattern. It only turns when the compressor is engaged as it is attached to the internal compressor shaft.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
#7
07-08-2014, 09:32 PM
Just to be clear, the big pulley on the compressor and the little idler pulley turn all the time the engine is running. The clutch plate is next to the compressor pulley-- it has 3 big rivets through it in a triangle pattern. It only turns when the compressor is engaged as it is attached to the internal compressor shaft.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
Currently he's out of town once back, I'll check with him.
Thank You All for your kind support and detailed information.
#9
07-14-2014, 08:40 PM
Just to be clear, the big pulley on the compressor and the little idler pulley turn all the time the engine is running. The clutch plate is next to the compressor pulley-- it has 3 big rivets through it in a triangle pattern. It only turns when the compressor is engaged as it is attached to the internal compressor shaft.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
If the compressor clutch plate is turning but air is not cold you should next feel the larger refrigerant line which leads from the passenger compartment to the compressor (Note, the other line on the compressor, the smaller one that goes forward to the condenser, normally runs hot enough to burn you, so be careful). The metal part of the pipe should get cold, and in humid weather have "sweat" on it. If the line is cold but the air isn't, you have a situation of the heater fighting the A/C inside the car. The heater will always win. The valve on the firewall that turns off the hot coolant to the heater when you want cold air needs to be completely closed with the dial on full cold. This is also a common problem on Civics but it is easily remedied for zero dollars by adjusting the push-pull cable on the valve.
So I went to the garage, the problem is common in Civic he said there only 2 things causing this problem.
1 - Compressor Coil, which wouldn't give a clicking sound if bad, but it does, so I believe it has to be the second one.
2 - Clutch Relay
Thank You
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