My Contact info, along with the technician working on my car, is towards the bottom of this thread. I have incuded both our emails and phone numbers. Please contact if you have any advice, questions, or need more information. Thanks

I have a 2001 Civic Ex Sedan. There are five main problems: power door locks do not work; power windows do not work and none of the four are getting voltage at the fuse box; turn signal switch doesn't work, nor do they light up on the dash; wiper switch only works on medium and high, and does not squirt out any fluid; cruise control doesn't work. Also, inside the fuse block under the dash, some wires in the block have voltage when they shouldn't and others don't have voltage when they should. There is also a relay under the passenger's side dash making a clicking sound when you hit the door lock/unlock button, or manually push down the driver's side door lock (when it works it is a safety feature, when it is manually pressed down, it locks all the doors in the car).

I had a Compustar 5000 series remote start and alarm installed by an authorized compustar dealer. The next day, I went to adjust the shock sensor to a higher level, and on the following day (2 days after the alarm was installed), some problems started happening...

(I do not believe these problems have anything to do with the compustar install, and the only reason for listing the install is I'm trying to detail out exactly what happened and what aftermarket electronics I have on my car. The technician who did the install has not only been doing car electrical for 20 years, but is also extremely competent, has gone above and beyond what anyone in his position should be expected to, and has been a great friend through all of this. More likely than not, it is pure coincidence that these problems began soon after the install.)

I first noticed my remote wasn't unlocking my door locks, then I realized the power locks in the car weren't working as well; the door lock fuse wasn't blown. Gradually over the next month other things malfunctioned. It started off with my turn signals and parking lights after the door locks. The driver's side parking light would come on when I'd hit the arm/disarm button, but not the passenger side. Then when the headlights were on, the passenger's side parking light would come on, but not the driver's side.

If I pushed down the manual door lock (the rectangle manual push/push lock by the window) on the driver's side then my turn signals would stop working, my cruise control would go out, none of my four power windows would roll up or down, my wipers wouldn't work on delay, nor would they squirt out washer fluid. In order to get them working again, I'd have to turn the car completely off, remove the key completely from the ignition, and wait 10 seconds and turn it back on again (if I didn't remove the key, majority of the time, even if the car was left off for 10 seconds, none of the stuff would work).

There was also a freak problem that happened with the PDX 4.150. It may have nothing to do with anything, but I figured I'd mention it nonetheless. I had unhooked the main 0 gauge power from the distribution block to move the amps. When I went to hook up the 0 gauge power to the distribution block, it sparked bright blue, as usual; however the PDX 4.150 started pouring out smoke. I immediately removed the 0 gauge power from the distribution block and left it out, until I had removed the 4.150 from my car. None of the fuses on the amp had been blown, and has since been replaced by Alpine as defective under warranty. After removing the 4.150, I hooked the 0 gauge power back up to the distribution block, it sparked again as usual, and the other amps worked fine. Alpine had no clue what could have went wrong with the amp.

The technician currently working on my car is Jon. Please feel free to contact him for more in-depth knowledge as to what he's done diagnosticaly. His email is jon@raxxllc.com and the shop's phone # is (608) 754-6945. My name is James and my email is j.w.monroe@hotmail.com and my cell is (847) 302-8802

I do know he has went through individual wires wire by wire and tested continuity, he has tested numerous relays, pins on the harnesses, and all 5 different switches.

I do have additional aftermarket electronics hooked up:

- Alipine IVA-W505 Head Unit
- Alpine NVE-P1 Navigation
- Alpine PDX 1.1000 Amp (2)
- Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp
- Alpine SWX-143D Subs (2)
- Alipine SPX-17PRO (2 Sets)
- PAC 7 Trigger (for the headunit, to enable video playback while car is
moving), spliced into headunit 12v wire for power
- S7 speedometer cluster, spliced into factory cigarette lighter for power.
- Stinger 15 Farad Capacitor
- Singer SHD841 Midi Fused Distribution Block
- Stinger SP2150 (Main Battery)
- Power Bastards Fitzall 220+ Alternator
- 0 Gauge power ran from alternator to battery, 0 Gauge ground ran from
battery to car frame, 0 gauge power ran from battery to capacitor, 0 gauge
ground ran from capacitor to frame, 0 gauge power ran from capactior to
midi fused distribution block (4 fuses @ 175amps), 4 gauge power ran from
distribution block to amps, 4 gauge ground ran from amps to car frame

Thank you for taking the time to read this and/or contact us,

James

 

1 thread is enough, you don't have to post 4 threads!

 

Completely uninstall the alarm system and go from there.

 

Since the alarm system was the most recent thing installed I would uninstall it and replace all of the fuses (if any are blown). Do a battery reset (unplug the battery for 15 minutes to an hour).

I'm not saying your installer is to blame. I mean, if he failed to diode or relay-isolate a circuit that should have been isolated then it is his fault. On the flip side; I have seen 700 dollar alarm systems that were bad out of the box. You may have a fried BCM due to the install! I wouldn't be so quick to let the alarm installer off of the hook. Find an MECP Advanced or Master installer in your area that can look over the alarm install! Most "mechanics" don't have 12 volt experts and will charge you up the *** while they're "learning" about your car.

I wish you lived in Arizona, I could find the bug within an hour! Putting money on the BCM though.

 

I'd start by replacing the fuse block under the dash, it's not real expensive even buying new but should be easy to find a good used one. Look for signs of corrosion, and see the next paragraph.

Did you just get this car? Any chance it has been in a flood? Electrical stuff dying over a period of weeks is the reason flooded cars are always considered a total loss.