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Camshaft Installation (92-95 Civic)

Old 03-01-2007, 04:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
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Default Camshaft Installation (92-95 Civic)

Ok, this is a pretty stright-forward process and requires little more than a 10 and 12mm. It really only gets hairy when you get into changing the valve springs that usually accompany a new cam.

[align=left]You will need a 17mm to rotate the crank, a spark plug socket, some engine assembly lube($3) and you probably want to go ahead and get a new camshaft seal (5 bucks).[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Ok, remove your valve cover. It's (6) 10mm's.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Set your motor to Top Dead Center (TDC) by rotating the crankshaft pulley bolt counter-clockwise (17mm). It's much easier to do this with the spark plugs out, but not totally necessary. There are (3) indicators on your lower timing belt cover. I like the bottom one because it's less skewed than the others. You can see it there at ~ 7 o'clock just below my P/S hose. Of course your "UP" should be at 12 o'clock. This is TDC. Note: my cam gear is advanced because of the cam that I have. Yours probably shoudn't be. [/align][align=left]

[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Remove the distributor. No pic here. It's just (3) 12's and 1 or 2 plugs and pull it out. If you keep the spark plug wires on there it will help you keep them fomr getting mixed up.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]If you can get the timing belt off, go ahead and take the cam gear off (12mm). You can keep it from turning by putting a screwdriver through there. If the belt is too tight, don't pry it with any tool; you can get it off when the rocker arm assembly comes off.[/align][align=left]Here is what you have now. There are really only two parts here; the cap and the assembly. That's (10) greasy 12mm's and (4) 10's by the dizzy and cam gear. Loosen these 1/4 turn at a time in the correct sequence to relieve the pressure put on one the end of the cam by the timing belt (think: stepping on a rake). If you don't have a manual for the correct sequence it's basically middle, outside, middle, outside, etc... but you should have a manual by now.[/align][align=left]

[/align][align=left][/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Here is the cap coming off. Don't forget the 10's. You can see two of them still in there by the cam gear. You may have to rap the assembly to get it loose.[/align][align=left]

[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Note: Be careful when handling your rocker arm assembly because the little vtec dowels can/will fall out of the rocker arms if you jostle it around too much. Even if they dont' fall all the way out they can just push out a bit and bind the lifter/rocker arm when you go to tighten it back down.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Pull out the cam and remove the cam seal.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Here is all of it out.[/align][align=left]


[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Wipe everything off really well. Generously lube the cam and journals with your assembly lube and gently lower it into place. Put your new cam seal on. It's pretty simple; spring side goes inward. Here's a pic, except that it should be against the gear. I pulled it away so you could see it.[/align][align=left]

[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Go ahead and put your cam gear on. I found it easier to get the timing belt back on before the rocker arm assembly gets bolted down because you can kinda "pry" the belt up. Just make sure you get the gear bolt on pretty tight and torque it to spec after you get it all back together.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Rotate the camshaft and get your marks lined up to TDC and slide the timing belt on. Make sure it doesn't move and put the rocker arm assembly back on. Make sure your lifters are all facing the right way and flush. I learned this the hard way by snapping my cam and bending the intake rocker arm shaft when the little vtec dowels weren't flush.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]This is correct.[/align][align=left]

[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Torque your cap bolts back down in the proper sequence. I believe the spec is 16ft/lbs for the 12's and 106in/lbs for the 10's, but refer to your manual. Dont' forget to torque the cam gear bolt now.[/align][align=left]Check your work by rotating the crank a couple of times and put it back to TDC. All of your marks should still be lined up. If not, you are off a tooth or two and you need to fix that.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Get your dizzy and valve cover back on and enjoy your shiny new cam.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left][/align]
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