I am currently getting ready to do a "Mini Me" swap on my 96 Civic (EK) D16y7 Motor and i need a little some help.

First off i have read EVERY "Write Up" out there and got as much info on this swap as possible.

1) Is there a wiring harness or something that would make the wiring process easier than is written in this Write Up?

www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32971

2) Would an aftermarket intake manifold like the "Skunk2" or "Edelbrock" manifold be better than the "y8" manifold?

3) Where is a good place to get a P28 ECU, and is it a "Plug and Play" application or is there ECU tuning needed?

Your Help Is Greatly Appreciated.

 

Why do you want to put p28 ecu?? For that you have to convert your car to obd1. Why not run a 96-98 p2p ecu since thier cheaper.

Installing a skunk2 or edelbrock air intake manifold might give better trotle responce but it won't give that much gains unless your running forced induction.

 

1) Im planning on "Boosting" the car in the future, and it is much cheaper to tune OBD1.

2) i was told that the p2p ecu is a harder install and i have not seen any "How-to's" on wireing it up.

Also, if i go with the "p2p" ecu what is the part number 37820-P2P-A _ _?

And any p2p install help would be great

thank you

 

well, this is an old post, but i'll give some insight into the subject. plus i'm bored at work, lol.

i went for obd0-obd1. i know that when i had to do that, i had to use the obd1 distributor (dizzy). basically from what i understand, you have to use a dizzy for whatever obd# ecu you're using.

obd2 ecu's can't be chipped. they can have a piggy back system though (that's when you have a system that plugs in where the ecu and ecu harness connect. this system then reconfigures everything to how you want it. it's a lot more expensive too)

the p2p ecu should plug right in. i'm not sure, but it is obd2 which is what you have. usually they're just plug and play.

the part number you wrote "37820-P2P-A _ _" is right.
"37820" is always the same
"P2P" is the ecu code
"A _ _" is explained this way. first letter = country of orgin
J = Japan
C= Canada
A=USA
G=Europe
second digit, if 5, 7, 9 then ecu is auto usually
third digit denotes the version/variation
L = California emissions or typically high altitude states as well.
5spd = 000, 001, 002, 003, A00, A01, A03, C00, C01, C02, C03, J00, J01, J02, A11, C11
Auto = A70, A71, A72, A91, A92, C70, C71, C72, C91, C92


to go to obd1, you need to buy an ecu jumper harness that goes from obd2 to obd1. they're easy to find and not too expensive. the p28 ecu's aren't very expensive. i bought one about 2-3 weeks ago for $70. you just have to look for them long enough and you can find deals

an aftermarket intake will help with better airflow, but you won't see a dramatic increase in power. remember to replace the headers and exhaust or else it's not going to help you. making the intake less restricted doesn't do anything if the exhaust is still restricted

anyways, you probably did the swap already but i was bored and came across the posting