I have done excessive research, but no one has been able to answer none of my questions. I know that their is different ways to go about the MINI-ME swap, but I want to know if the following set up would actually work. Would I have to add a knock sensor as well as any OTHER SENSORS?
I have the following:
D16Y8 cylinder head
ZC SOHC non-vtec motor (same as D16A6)
D16Z6 OBX intake manifold
94 Civic AEM Fuel Rail
89 CRX Fuel Pressure Regulator
OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness
P28 ECU
RC injectors 310cc
Know I have read in a forum that the 92-95 Civic VX, DX, distributor would bolt up (all wholes matching together) to the Y8 head...is that true?
(website-http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=295849&page=1
this is what it says....What you use it a distributor from the 92-95 CX/VX/or DX. They will all bolt CORRECTLY to your Y8 head and will send the CORRECT signal to the OBD1 ECU. The 92-95 Si distributor will work as well, but will need to be modified to bolt to the Y8 head.
I know that my distributor will bolt up fine (my CRX SI distributor), but will the signal be different and can I use vtec spark plug wires on the obd0 dizzy?

 

the plug wires should be fine, but the OBD0 dizzy will confuse the OBD1 ecu. get the OBD1 dizzy and change the electrical plugs to the ones on your car so it will plug in. that should work. good luck.

 

so you mean I should get a OBD1 dizzy with the internals (which one? The DX, CX, VX {apparently the SI & EX dizzy are different from the DX, CX, VX & won't bolt up correctly to my D16Y8 head) and use my stock D16A6 spark plug wires (I thought that my spark plug wires wouldn't reach the spark plugs b/c the valve cover is a little bit bigger than the non-vtec cylinder heads.

 

i think the plug wires will reach, but i meant you have to change the wires that are in the little harness to the stock harness so that it will plug into your cars wiring. its a lot of work, but it should be the best way to do it.

 

the best way which is the "right" way is to do the complete obd1 conversion...let me know how it goes cuz im gunna be puttin a vtec head on my motor one day after i get the teg on the road..

 

Yes I know I want to do it the right way, but I need to know which distributor would bolt up correctly? This is one of the main problems that I have found myself in and that is several forums/mini me write ups DON'T PROVIDE ENOUGH/VITAL/NECESSARY INFO about the SWAP (this is NOT bashing on anyone in particular). I don't want to go through trial and error because that would be very costly. I will have the obd1 ecu, injectors, Intake manifold, obd0 to obd1 wiring conversion harness and obviously the D16Y8 head (96-00 Civic EX SOHC VTEC OBD2). I need to know about the distributor because I want to purchase it in the next couple of days....which one to buy; obd1 dx, lx, cx, vx, ex, si OR obd2 dx, lx, cx, vx, ex, si, (ALL forums have mentioned tha the EX, SI dizzy won't bolt up correctly to the Z6 or Y8 head thus only two bolts would hold it in place-which can lead to later on disasters) and WHAT ADDED SENSORS would I need to add to the Z6 intake manifold or Y8 head (knock? map? etc...)

 

im almost positive u have top have the y8 dizzy cuz the z6 wont fit..ihvae a bunch of sites on mini me lemme list a couple and see if they help u..
http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/minime.html
http://www.redline130.net/minimeinfo.html
http://www.redline130.net/dailydriver.html
maybe those will help u out some

 

I did not understand ANY of that conversation. I am such a n00b. :|

 

y8 head will accept all other non vtec distributors 88-00. it is the z6 head you have to modify the dizzy for unless your running obd-1 then you can use the z6 dizzy. heres a mini me write up you should thouroghly read. Here is what you need before starting your Z6 swap project:


Z6 head from a 92-95 Civic Si/Ex
Head gasket, intake gasket, and exaust gasket from 92-95 Civic Si/Ex
Timing belt from 92-95 Civic Si/Ex
Valve cover gasket for a 92-95 Civic Si/Ex
RPM Activated switch, or Vtec controller (such as Fields, or APEXi)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, or FPR from 92-95 Civic Si/Ex
Timing light
Lots of VTEC Stickers, and Powered by Honda stickers

Recommended things to pick up (but not totally necessary):


Change of oil/oil filter
New Anti-freeze
Impact Wrench (this could very well be a necessity!)
New set of head-bolts
New Spark-plugs, dist. cap, and rotor

Starting the saga:
Pull that baby in the Garage, and drain the oil, and coolant. The Coolant pet-**** is located at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Disconnect the battery. Unbolt the Intake manifold, and pull it away from the head. There is a bracket that bolts to the underside of the throttle body, so if it ain't moving, that is why. Unbolt the exaust manifold. Unbolt the downpipe from the hanger under the engine, and this should alow enough play to pull the exaust manifold away from the head.



Pull the spark plug wires, noting where each one went. Take out the spark plugs. Unbolt the valve cover, and pull it off. Unbolt the Dist. from the head. Loosen the alternator bracket, and move the alternator up enough to get the fan belt loose. Do this with the AC compressor if your car is so equipt. You will need to loose the bolt facing the drivers side of fender, and then loosen the bolt on top of that bracket to get the AC compressor to loosen. If your lost, go get a friggin' helms manual.



Next, jack the car up, and take off the driver's side front wheel. There is a kick panel that you can remove inside the wheel well. Take if off. Unbolt the Timing belt cover (all the way down to the drive pulley. Line up the drive pulley to the timing mark on the timing belt cover. There should be 4 marks on the drive pulley. One all by itself, and a set of three to the left of that mark. Line it up to the middle mark in the set of three (18 BTDC). Slide off the alternator belt, and AC belt if so equipt.



Now comes the hard part...unbolt the drive pulley. This is very very hard to do. I would HIGHLY recommend a nice big strong impact wrench for this. You can ghetto rig anything you want, from a 6 foot pry bar to a 5 pound sledge, but from personal experience that baby ain't gonna come off without a nice impact wrench...besides, you've always wanted one of those anyways, right? Mine broke two Husky sockets, 1 Craftsmen socket, and a socket reducer to get the pulley off, so good luck. Now remove the timing belt cover. Loosen the Timing belt tensioner (The idler pulley the timing belt curves around...it has a 12mm bolt on it...), and loosen the timing belt enough to pull it off the cam, and then finally off the engine.



Unbolt the head in this sequence: . Remove the oil control jet from the block using a small pin or screwdriver. It should just pop off, and requires no screwing, etc. BE CAREFUL! Where's the oil control jet? Click here. If you fail to remove the oil control jet, the oil pressure in the head will be too high, as it already has it's own oil control jet, and VTEC will never actuate. Clean off the pistons, and scrap the head gasket remains off your block. Be careful with this, and don't use anything hard such as a putty knife, as it will leave scratches, and destoy the integrity of the headgasket seal. All clean and purty now? Good. Lets go to the install...


Installation:
Take your newly aquired VTEC head (make sure to have all the stickers handy!) and make sure it's clean. Now would be an excellent time to get a valve job done if this head came off a high mileage engine...that's your call. Basically reverse the order of disassembly. Using the new head gasket bolt the head on using your new head bolts (hint, hint) in the correct order. If you don't have a HELM's manual, e-mail me and I'll tell ya the order, but you ***REALLY*** should have a HELM's Manual by now... Torque them down to the correct LBS/SQ IN (HELM's anyone?). Turn the cam gear until the mark "top" is at the top. Slide the drive pulley back on to maker sure the middle timing mark is still lined up. Take the drive pulley back off.



Slide the new timing belt (you did get one didn't you???) over the timing gear, and work it around the water pump, and T-belt tensioner, and finally around the timing gear off the crankshaft. The belt is probably going to be TiiiTE, so it may require a bit of elbow grease, and some creative welding (just kidding). If the tensioner pulley is all the way loose, you should be able to get the belt on without *TOO* much effort. When the belt is on, tighten the tensioner pulley back up. The belt is gonna be TiiiiTE but I wouldn't worry too much about that. (Did I mention a disclaimer yet?)



Bolt the T-Belt cover back on, and then bolt the drive pulley back on using the impact wrench (you did have to get one didn't you? I knew it!) Slide the Alternator belt, and AC belt back on the drive pulley. Tighten them back up respectively. Bolt the Dist. back on. The A6 Dist. is NOT going to line up to the Z6 head, so you have several options here...either use the two side bolts with large washers to hold the assembly on, or do some creative metal fabrication to make it look better. This is entirely up to you. A suggestion would be to bolt it down with the same amount of room on either side of the bolts, incase you need to advance or retard yor timing a bit.



Bolt the intake manifold back on using the new intake gasket. Bolt the exaust manifold back on using the new exaust gasket. Re-bolt the down pipe hanger, and don't forget the intake manifold bracket that bolts to the underside of the throttle body. Bolt the valve cover back on, using the new valve cover gasket. Put in the new spark plugs, and re-connect the spark plug wires. Fill the car back up with oil, and coolant. re-connect the battery. You are now ready to see if she'll start...cross your fingers. Tripple check to make sure everything is back where it should be.

 

HELLO,FELLAS I WANT TO DO A MINI-ME SWAP BUT AT THE SAME TIME A WANT TO KEEP THE AUTO TRANNY.1994 HONDA CIVIC LX 1.5 AUTO,I WAS TOLD THAT THE VTEC HEAD CONVERSION WONT WORK IF I KEEP THE AUTO TRANNY BECUASE IT WILL CONFUSE THE COMPUTER.IM PUTTING TOGETHER A LIST OF THINGS I NEED VTEC CYLINDER HEAD WITH INTAKE MANIFOLD,VTEC DISTRIBUTER AUTOMATIC,P28 ECU AUTOMATIC,TRYING TO FIND A D16Y8 HEAD GASKET DONT KNOW FROM WHERE CAN SOME HELP?THE WIRE HARNESS FOR THE VTEC SOLENIOD,CAN SOME ONE PLEASE TELL ME IF IM HEADED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION,THANKS FELLAS HOPE TO BE FLYING ONE DAY,THANKS.