h22 or type R
personally, I wouldn't go H22 unless you buy an H2B kit for it. If you go straight H22, you may have axle binding issues. Plus, h22 trannys suck. H2B is where its at. And at the same time, you'll have people tell you that they've run their H22 setup in their ek for years without problems.
H2B might still be cheaper than doing a straight type r swap too, unless you can find a great deal on one. Thats just my opinion.
All in all, its up to you man. Do some research and decide what would be the better swap for you.
H2B might still be cheaper than doing a straight type r swap too, unless you can find a great deal on one. Thats just my opinion.
All in all, its up to you man. Do some research and decide what would be the better swap for you.
im a huge fan of the g22/ g23 swap.
its a little more difficult because you have to swap gears in the water pump to an h22 gear and plug 2 oil holes in the h22 head but you'll save some dough and have a stronger bottom end with the f22 or f23. if you're going n/a remember to put the k20 pistons in it, stick with f22/23 pistons for boost.
but i agree with Shandles. h2b > straight type r. typer > straight h22.
a g23 swap with k20 pistons is supposed to make 250hp with a light tune. theres also a stroker crank kit available for the f23 to make it 2.4l
but a g23 will destroy k motors all day, have more bottom end torque, a stronger bottom end, and a lot more displacement than a b series swap. put an h2b onto the h22 or g22 swap. it just wont rev to 9 or 10 like a massaged type r will.
are you going obd1 or using a standalone ems? if obd1 is legal in your neck of the woods, that would also save you A LOT of dough.
basicly, it comes down to this: are you going to use boost, do you like a high reving motor or bottom end torque, price range, and how much power do you want to make, and how much swap experience do you have?
its a little more difficult because you have to swap gears in the water pump to an h22 gear and plug 2 oil holes in the h22 head but you'll save some dough and have a stronger bottom end with the f22 or f23. if you're going n/a remember to put the k20 pistons in it, stick with f22/23 pistons for boost.
but i agree with Shandles. h2b > straight type r. typer > straight h22.
a g23 swap with k20 pistons is supposed to make 250hp with a light tune. theres also a stroker crank kit available for the f23 to make it 2.4l
but a g23 will destroy k motors all day, have more bottom end torque, a stronger bottom end, and a lot more displacement than a b series swap. put an h2b onto the h22 or g22 swap. it just wont rev to 9 or 10 like a massaged type r will.
are you going obd1 or using a standalone ems? if obd1 is legal in your neck of the woods, that would also save you A LOT of dough.
basicly, it comes down to this: are you going to use boost, do you like a high reving motor or bottom end torque, price range, and how much power do you want to make, and how much swap experience do you have?
I personally plan on going H2B. Later on down the line when I get tired of 200 hp, I plan on swapping in a f23 bottom end with custom pistons/rods and throwing a turbo on. That is, of course, if I haven't traded my car for something else by that point.
K-swaps are nothing to sneeze at if you have the money. The blocks are tough as ****. I've read their rocker arms and transmissions are the weak points, but thats only at 300+ hp.
a stock j swap and stiff suspension can net an ek hatch low 12 second quarter miles, maybe even high 11's if its gutted or in a lighter-weight eg shell
K-swaps are nothing to sneeze at if you have the money. The blocks are tough as ****. I've read their rocker arms and transmissions are the weak points, but thats only at 300+ hp.
a stock j swap and stiff suspension can net an ek hatch low 12 second quarter miles, maybe even high 11's if its gutted or in a lighter-weight eg shell
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