I've heard that chrome headers will become discolored due to the heat. Probably better to go with ceramic coated ones. As for the piping, I dunno. A pipe is a pipe.

 

"Why you don’t buy SSAUTOCHROME-Marty

This is what it ends up being folks.

1.R & D = money and time spent by the company
2.Materials = money spent by the company
3.Advertising and promotion = time money spent plus the time spent locataing/signing retailers up for product dispersement.

This company(SSAUTOCHROME) is able to put such cheap kits on the market cause

1.There is no research and developement that has gone into their products this is why the mani's dont fit,piping is not right,turbos come apart,cracks,leaks,and all out failure comes with these kits.
2.The materials speak for themself.Manifolds seperating,boost controllers leak,**** comes apart at random for the most part.
3.Advertising....they have none.All their advertising is word of mouth,countless ebay names,and two websites.


If you are a true enthusiest you will see this company is nothing short of a scam and a joke.You simply do not take shortcuts when doing such a major mod to your car and yes a turbo is a major mod requiring fuel maps to be changed quite a bit and your cars reliability depends on the componets not failing.What happens when your runnin 10 psi on a t3 super 60 on a stock D series engine making around 210whp and your boost controller fails and lets you spike to 15/16psi.......your engine is toast more times than not.

It is simple,when buying any kind of turbo kit;you get what you pay for end of story.So dont throw your money away on this crap.



If you would like proof of this to be able to make this a sticky let me know cause I can get pics of mani's broke in half,turbo's split down the middle,piping not fitting and so on

Also SSAUTOCHROME likes to try and fool people

Here is a add from SSAUTOCRAP--- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...90359739QQrdZ1

and another one--- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Civic...90956711QQrdZ1

This is a "non ssautochrome add" [sm=badidea.gif] http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...91279567QQrdZ1

Notice the pics,products,and so on are the same.Notice they dont say who makes the manifold....there is a reason for this.No company with any good standing in any market would put their name on that.I mean who would put their name on a manifold that cracks cause of the weight of the turbo alone"




copied from
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=68360

read the rest of the stuff in the link too

 

You haven't been here long enough to understand..

 

^^errr what?

 

Yeah this question was never answered because people would rather be online gangsters and talk **** over a forum...Anyway, I'm def. going to build this. I have since removed the motor and I'm just about ready to get the head and block machined and polished. I was thinking of going with eagle rods and vitara pistons. What bearings should I use? What would need to be done with the valves, springs, lifters, cam etc. What else should I replace outside of the motor? I have ordered new belts and tensioners. I'm also considering getting a new water pump as well. I'm on a budget and I'm doing this project with the money I have left over from when I sold my trans am (LT1). So after the pistons, rods, and machining stuff I'm going to be doing this from my weekly paycheck. I'm also gonna need help with a choice of a turbo. I'm not really sure what to go for, any advice on this? thanks guys

 

You haven't been here long enough to understand. Everytime someone asks what motor to swap he says a B-series, that the D-series isn't worth it, can't make power, etc. and it's just false.

 

D series sleeves are slightly stronger than B series. D series is cheaper than B especially for tuning with upgraded headwork and valvetrain. I know several people personally with d16y7's, y8's, z6's running 250whp with T3/T04(b/e) 46's and have been DD'ing for 40,000-50,000 miles and still going strong, is that not reliable? I thought so. You can build the bottom end of a d series for half the price of some used B series. And the difference between vtec and nonvtec motors are unnoticable in most cases. None vtecs are sometimes preffered in nonvtec d series builds due to the extra material saved from not have vtec oiling "arteries", meaning less moving parts.

And don't comment on Greddy's post anymore, it is legitimate and completely true, nothing to argue with.

 

Can anyone tell me if a stock D15's springs, valves, lifters, and cams take 250-260hp? I want to build this reliable as possible but still be on a budget

 

SOHC non vtec turbo should be a tight build no head modification is necessary to reach 250 hp but you do need to reinforce the bottom head with rods pistons ex. vitaras and arp headstuds other than that you just need a good way to tune the car and fuel system components like the fuel pump and injectors then the turbo parts. Stick with the d you got it will be much cheaper plus with that bottom end you should have no problem making more power and if you do it right this car can be more than plenty reliable.

 

I've heard of stock internals D-series making 250WHP without throwing a rod. Just requires a great condition engine and a phenomenal tune. 250WHP is really pushing it though and I wouldn't dare take that chance. Just thought i'd throw that little bit of knowledge out there, so you guys know it can be done.

EDIT: OOPS, didn't realize this was the thread I already said that in.