High Boost B16A2
#6
RE: High Boost B16A2
you dont really need any headwork done other than a Forged crankshaft. The bottom end is whats NEEDED to be built. Forged rods, pistons and a sleeved block. Then youll need some RC injectors and a nice tune.
#7
RE: High Boost B16A2
a forged crankshaft isnt headwork Pete. im so confused right now.
anyway. 15-20 (which is actually a huge gap, because the prep for a decent 15 would keel over and die at 20, but I digress...)
youll need new forged Con-rods, forged pistons, probably no higher than 9:1 CR, SS valves, and if you wanted a solid 20PSI motor, with daily drivable reliability, then you will need to sleeve it. 15 you might get by with a very good machine shop installed blockguard, not just one tapped in with a hammer. never ever ever do that. it will very likely push the cylinders out of round, and cause catastrophic meltdown when you push it hard. a machine shop can realign the bores to make sure they are round after the install, as wel as weld the thing in and remachine the head surface. but your best bet is sleeves. well worth the money IMHO. oh, and all ARP hardware, along with a bunch of little deatils that im not going to bother going into because youre probably just curious, and a competent machinist would recommend them anyway. oh, and the stock crank will be totally fine. a b-series crank is totally reliable up to and well over 5-600hp. maybe chamfer the oil passages, and clean it really well and a little micropolishing on the bearing surfaces, but again, the machinist should reco that stuff anyway.
anyway. 15-20 (which is actually a huge gap, because the prep for a decent 15 would keel over and die at 20, but I digress...)
youll need new forged Con-rods, forged pistons, probably no higher than 9:1 CR, SS valves, and if you wanted a solid 20PSI motor, with daily drivable reliability, then you will need to sleeve it. 15 you might get by with a very good machine shop installed blockguard, not just one tapped in with a hammer. never ever ever do that. it will very likely push the cylinders out of round, and cause catastrophic meltdown when you push it hard. a machine shop can realign the bores to make sure they are round after the install, as wel as weld the thing in and remachine the head surface. but your best bet is sleeves. well worth the money IMHO. oh, and all ARP hardware, along with a bunch of little deatils that im not going to bother going into because youre probably just curious, and a competent machinist would recommend them anyway. oh, and the stock crank will be totally fine. a b-series crank is totally reliable up to and well over 5-600hp. maybe chamfer the oil passages, and clean it really well and a little micropolishing on the bearing surfaces, but again, the machinist should reco that stuff anyway.
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