"what have you done to your civic today?"
1. installed gunmetal skunk2 rear lower arms
2. installed megan trailing arm bushings
3. replaced rear shock upper rubber mount and greased all parts related to the top hat.
no more squeaking, popping, clicking noises while driving on flat or bumpy roads, none of those noises going over dips.
those cheap oem trailing arm bushings were all worn out, cracked, look to be falling apart. One of them looked like someone took a sharp blade or laser across the bottom section where there was a rubber stub connecting to the outer ring, not sure how bad it really is, but I feel better knowing I replaced it.
I could literally move the bushing arm mounts by hand in a near full rotation with ease. The megan bushings are hard, but can still flex when needed.
I did have a problem installing the first bushing. It was like the outer diameter was too large to fit in the trailing arm. Tried like 5 times and it kept going in crooked. So I tried the other bushing I got it how it was supposed to go. So frustrating.
So I go to install the bushing on the other side(the one that kept going in crooked) and I'm looking at the bushing. Instead of being a near perfect circle, a little 1/4" section was bent out. Probably from it going crooked all the time and having to take a hammer to the bushing arm to pop it out. So I hammered it down, went back to normal. But I also decided to lightly hammer the edge that goes in the trailing arm so it would start off easier. First attempt went perfect.
So yeah, my arms are really tired and sore from messing with the bushing tool, removing/installing all those bolts.
Sometime later I'll replace the front shock upper rubber mounts, grease those bushings, install the oem type r carbon fiber cluster faceplate(pos is actually plastic with carbon fiber print, what a waste of $50).
And the last suspension changes will be to replace the front lower ball joints or install ES boots, install new ES tie rod boots and install ES front sway bar endlinks
I know it's long, get over it.
2. installed megan trailing arm bushings
3. replaced rear shock upper rubber mount and greased all parts related to the top hat.
no more squeaking, popping, clicking noises while driving on flat or bumpy roads, none of those noises going over dips.
those cheap oem trailing arm bushings were all worn out, cracked, look to be falling apart. One of them looked like someone took a sharp blade or laser across the bottom section where there was a rubber stub connecting to the outer ring, not sure how bad it really is, but I feel better knowing I replaced it.
I could literally move the bushing arm mounts by hand in a near full rotation with ease. The megan bushings are hard, but can still flex when needed.
I did have a problem installing the first bushing. It was like the outer diameter was too large to fit in the trailing arm. Tried like 5 times and it kept going in crooked. So I tried the other bushing I got it how it was supposed to go. So frustrating.
So I go to install the bushing on the other side(the one that kept going in crooked) and I'm looking at the bushing. Instead of being a near perfect circle, a little 1/4" section was bent out. Probably from it going crooked all the time and having to take a hammer to the bushing arm to pop it out. So I hammered it down, went back to normal. But I also decided to lightly hammer the edge that goes in the trailing arm so it would start off easier. First attempt went perfect.
So yeah, my arms are really tired and sore from messing with the bushing tool, removing/installing all those bolts.
Sometime later I'll replace the front shock upper rubber mounts, grease those bushings, install the oem type r carbon fiber cluster faceplate(pos is actually plastic with carbon fiber print, what a waste of $50).
And the last suspension changes will be to replace the front lower ball joints or install ES boots, install new ES tie rod boots and install ES front sway bar endlinks
I know it's long, get over it.
Last edited by inthezoneac; Jan 14, 2009 at 03:44 PM.
Today installed an apexi ws2 exhaust, changed plugs, and installed magnaflow cat
Yesterday installed the horn and short ram air intake
Day before put in the center dash vent, hazard switch, clock, dome light,
Day before that I got a new shift ****
By the way my air intake is making a ringing noise it kinda like a low pitched whirring sound it seems like it makes it when the air intake is off but the air intake seems to magnify the sound is this normal. I mean it is pretty loud you can hear it clearly over the engine
Yesterday installed the horn and short ram air intake
Day before put in the center dash vent, hazard switch, clock, dome light,
Day before that I got a new shift ****
By the way my air intake is making a ringing noise it kinda like a low pitched whirring sound it seems like it makes it when the air intake is off but the air intake seems to magnify the sound is this normal. I mean it is pretty loud you can hear it clearly over the engine
Today installed an apexi ws2 exhaust, changed plugs, and installed magnaflow cat
Yesterday installed the horn and short ram air intake
Day before put in the center dash vent, hazard switch, clock, dome light,
Day before that I got a new shift ****
By the way my air intake is making a ringing noise it kinda like a low pitched whirring sound it seems like it makes it when the air intake is off but the air intake seems to magnify the sound is this normal. I mean it is pretty loud you can hear it clearly over the engine
Yesterday installed the horn and short ram air intake
Day before put in the center dash vent, hazard switch, clock, dome light,
Day before that I got a new shift ****
By the way my air intake is making a ringing noise it kinda like a low pitched whirring sound it seems like it makes it when the air intake is off but the air intake seems to magnify the sound is this normal. I mean it is pretty loud you can hear it clearly over the engine
Congratulations!
Write down that RPM number and you've found the speed it takes your engine to run at to find the natural resonance frequency of air in your intake tube.
Ever seen a pipe organ? If air was blowing out of your intake and not in through it, you'd have a solid tone played at that PRM level.
Write down that RPM number and you've found the speed it takes your engine to run at to find the natural resonance frequency of air in your intake tube.
Ever seen a pipe organ? If air was blowing out of your intake and not in through it, you'd have a solid tone played at that PRM level.


