No score at the salvage yards, well I did get an emblem for the hatch, that will keep the rain out. I put on the new hatch gas shocks, aaaahhhhh way better. Made my templates for my rear speaker grills and a plan for the cargo cover (dealer - $102 for each speaker grill and $183 for the cargo cover).

 

did alot today.
finished removing the glue the window tint left behind

pulled some CEL codes to see how poorly a job the previous owner did on the engine swap(no vtec sensors hooked up)

triped out that there are two map sensors and i dont know which one to use.

changed a tire because i need the car to last till tuesday for when i get my camber kit and alignment done

if u can help me with my wireing problem please take a look
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...ad.php?t=75722

 

I drove my car and bought the wrong oil for an oil change (0w-30). I looked in my manual to double check the summer oil, which I thought would be 0w-30, but it is actually 5w-30. You can also use 10w-30 if it is colder, or so says my Hayne's manual. But, I looked up motor oil on wikipedia and the "w" stands for winter temperature. So, this confuses me. You would assume that a lower number (5w-30) would start in the lower temperatures. Now, wikipedia confirms that the 5w-30 should theoretically be able to turnover in colder temperatures than the 10w-30, however, I do know that this is wikipedia and the can get their facts wrong from time to time, but it is pretty consistant and usually something like that wouldn't go unnoticed for very long.

Now, the reason I got the 0w-30 was because a) I thought that the manual said that I could use it and 2) I would increase my gas mileage.

Does anyone know if the 5w-30 should be the colder temperature oil (like it matters where I live anyway)? and if a 0w-30 would theoretically increase gas milage since it is the same viscosity as a 5w-30? If yes, would I be able to use it? Why or why not?

How often do you guys change your oil? Can you go longer on sythetic oil (like I've heard) or is this a myth?

Thanks guys.

 

you can probably change the oil at 10k with synthetic and be completely safe. I do it every 7k.

the manual recommends 5w30. I use 5w30, but if you live up north I'd stick with 10w30.

w=weight or viscosity of the oil in the Winter.

 

Added a 99 Si rear sway bar to my 98 HX and found out that my high pressure AC is leaking. Now I have no AC, in Arizona that suck in summer. I also made buddies with some of the guys at Hasport, it is here in Pheonix lucky me. That will be helpful when I do my swap.

 

Tossed in a low end JVC cd deck, luck, they had the dash and wire kit. Also figured out why the door speaker was not working. PO has cut and cut and cut the OEM wire down to damn near nothing and had twisted wire to it and then twisted that to the speaker connectors, nothing was solid. Pulled the door card, pulled the OEM wire loose from the door, did the best i could with a **shutter** butt connectors, shrink wrap them to some old project speaker wire with the correct connectors, now I got tunes in all 4 corners and sounds way better, except for the blown 6x9s ugh.

total cost $122, prob could have saved a few bucks by getting it all on eBay but no wait and I have a place to take it back to.

 

Just parked in her in the driveway after a 900 mile round trip. She ran perfectly with 0 disappointments. She needs a bath, wax and vacuum. I am so proud of her

Also... need more power to that D16... found out that I lose serious power on steep hills when car is full of people and luggage. Must plan B series swap for when the motor goes...

 

Got my rear disc brakes in. Details in my progress thread. Priced some tires for the Si rims.

 

Installed pretty tail lights and replaced the fuse for my headlight so I am no longer a padiddle. I'm so glad it was just a fuse...
I also bought the stuff to wire a toggle switch for my halos Now I just have to find time to do it...

 

Just brought my car back to the shop for some fin toutch's