1995 civic
Moderator
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11,417
From: FL
might need a new fuel filter. my old civic had random starting problems. i replaced the fuel filter and it went away.
also, are your battery wires nice and snug on the terminals? you shouldn't be able to move them around without loosening them.
also, are your battery wires nice and snug on the terminals? you shouldn't be able to move them around without loosening them.
HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 409
From: San Angelo, TX
^^ Fuel filter was mentioned a few pages ago (by me, actually - but that doesn't really matter). Point is, you need to replace all of the simple and pretty much inexpensive things (like plugs, wires, filters, cap & rotor and fluids) before you declare an engine dead. 'Basic Troubleshooting 101' (for anything, really) is to start small. For instance, a fuel filter is a helluva lot easier and cheaper to change out than a fuel pump. It's not always necessary to take a huge swipe at it when something small and cheap might actually be the problem.
I would take care of the basic stuff (I mentioned earlier) first, then either have an auto parts store plug their tester into your ECU and check for codes, or replace the burned out [or more likely removed by the P.O.] CEL bulb and observe any 'flash' or 'blink' codes to help with any sensors or other conditions that are potentially bad. The Honda ECUs are pretty good about telling you what it thinks is wrong with the car - it's not always right, but it knows what it isn't happy with and will generally lead you in the right direction. Not to mention the majority of the folks here are usually quite helpful when it comes to tracking down the things the ECU codes and/or CEL 'flash/blink' codes actually mean.
But it's your money, time, and effort. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
To check for spark, first check the plug wires for continuity (using a volt meter on the 'Ohms' setting - one probe on each end - it should 'zero out' if it's good). Also check the plugs using the volt meter by putting one probe on the end the plug wire snaps onto, and the other probe on the center electrode on the business end making sure not to touch any other part. Check all of the plugs and wires in this manner and that will clear the plugs and wires.
The safest way I know to check the engine's ignition system for spark is to use an inductive timing light, and move the inductive pick-up to each plug wire - it'll cause the gun to flash if spark is present. Start (or attempt to start) the car and watch for the light to flash - that's it... move to the next wire.
A not-as-safe way is to pull the end of the plug wire (one at a time) away from the distributor cap about a half-inch, holding it with something insulated (plug wire pliers works the best), and have a friend try to start the engine for a second or two - you should see a spark jumping between cap and wire rather quickly... which is all you need. Don't actually start the car and run it in this manner. You can also use a screwdriver inserted into the end of the plug wire and hold it so the metal shaft of the screwdriver is about a half-inch from something conductive on the block (usually right next to where the spark plug is works best). You can check either end of the wire or both if you like, but since you've already checked the wires and plugs for continuity, you shouldn't have to.
Be careful using these methods of checking for spark - you could get a jolt if you don't properly insulate yourself. Of course, if you have a bad plug wire, you could get a jolt just by grabbing it in the right place while the car's running anyway.
Whatever method you use to check for spark, make sure you're not leaning against the car while doing so - the car is the 'negative' part of the circuit, and leaning against or touching any metal part of the car while holding onto your plug wires will help complete the circuit through you - causing you to 'get bit' by the car. Rarely is it fatal, but it's not exactly a recommended form of recreation, either... but then again, neither is inhaling paint fumes, but people still do it.
I would take care of the basic stuff (I mentioned earlier) first, then either have an auto parts store plug their tester into your ECU and check for codes, or replace the burned out [or more likely removed by the P.O.] CEL bulb and observe any 'flash' or 'blink' codes to help with any sensors or other conditions that are potentially bad. The Honda ECUs are pretty good about telling you what it thinks is wrong with the car - it's not always right, but it knows what it isn't happy with and will generally lead you in the right direction. Not to mention the majority of the folks here are usually quite helpful when it comes to tracking down the things the ECU codes and/or CEL 'flash/blink' codes actually mean.
But it's your money, time, and effort. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
To check for spark, first check the plug wires for continuity (using a volt meter on the 'Ohms' setting - one probe on each end - it should 'zero out' if it's good). Also check the plugs using the volt meter by putting one probe on the end the plug wire snaps onto, and the other probe on the center electrode on the business end making sure not to touch any other part. Check all of the plugs and wires in this manner and that will clear the plugs and wires.
The safest way I know to check the engine's ignition system for spark is to use an inductive timing light, and move the inductive pick-up to each plug wire - it'll cause the gun to flash if spark is present. Start (or attempt to start) the car and watch for the light to flash - that's it... move to the next wire.
A not-as-safe way is to pull the end of the plug wire (one at a time) away from the distributor cap about a half-inch, holding it with something insulated (plug wire pliers works the best), and have a friend try to start the engine for a second or two - you should see a spark jumping between cap and wire rather quickly... which is all you need. Don't actually start the car and run it in this manner. You can also use a screwdriver inserted into the end of the plug wire and hold it so the metal shaft of the screwdriver is about a half-inch from something conductive on the block (usually right next to where the spark plug is works best). You can check either end of the wire or both if you like, but since you've already checked the wires and plugs for continuity, you shouldn't have to.
Be careful using these methods of checking for spark - you could get a jolt if you don't properly insulate yourself. Of course, if you have a bad plug wire, you could get a jolt just by grabbing it in the right place while the car's running anyway.
Whatever method you use to check for spark, make sure you're not leaning against the car while doing so - the car is the 'negative' part of the circuit, and leaning against or touching any metal part of the car while holding onto your plug wires will help complete the circuit through you - causing you to 'get bit' by the car. Rarely is it fatal, but it's not exactly a recommended form of recreation, either... but then again, neither is inhaling paint fumes, but people still do it.
Last edited by Type RB; Mar 1, 2009 at 08:04 AM.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
I will take that into consideration since I put the battery back after recharging it, it felt a little loose.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
^^ Fuel filter was mentioned a few pages ago (by me, actually - but that doesn't really matter). Point is, you need to replace all of the simple and pretty much inexpensive things (like plugs, wires, filters, cap & rotor and fluids) before you declare an engine dead. 'Basic Troubleshooting 101' (for anything, really) is to start small. For instance, a fuel filter is a helluva lot easier and cheaper to change out than a fuel pump. It's not always necessary to take a huge swipe at it when something small and cheap might actually be the problem.
I would take care of the basic stuff (I mentioned earlier) first, then either have an auto parts store plug their tester into your ECU and check for codes, or replace the burned out [or more likely removed by the P.O.] CEL bulb and observe any 'flash' or 'blink' codes to help with any sensors or other conditions that are potentially bad. The Honda ECUs are pretty good about telling you what it thinks is wrong with the car - it's not always right, but it knows what it isn't happy with and will generally lead you in the right direction. Not to mention the majority of the folks here are usually quite helpful when it comes to tracking down the things the ECU codes and/or CEL 'flash/blink' codes actually mean.
But it's your money, time, and effort. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
To check for spark, first check the plug wires for continuity (using a volt meter on the 'Ohms' setting - one probe on each end - it should 'zero out' if it's good). Also check the plugs using the volt meter by putting one probe on the end the plug wire snaps onto, and the other probe on the center electrode on the business end making sure not to touch any other part. Check all of the plugs and wires in this manner and that will clear the plugs and wires.
The safest way I know to check the engine's ignition system for spark is to use an inductive timing light, and move the inductive pick-up to each plug wire - it'll cause the gun to flash if spark is present. Start (or attempt to start) the car and watch for the light to flash - that's it... move to the next wire.
A not-as-safe way is to pull the end of the plug wire (one at a time) away from the distributor cap about a half-inch, holding it with something insulated (plug wire pliers works the best), and have a friend try to start the engine for a second or two - you should see a spark jumping between cap and wire rather quickly... which is all you need. Don't actually start the car and run it in this manner. You can also use a screwdriver inserted into the end of the plug wire and hold it so the metal shaft of the screwdriver is about a half-inch from something conductive on the block (usually right next to where the spark plug is works best). You can check either end of the wire or both if you like, but since you've already checked the wires and plugs for continuity, you shouldn't have to.
Be careful using these methods of checking for spark - you could get a jolt if you don't properly insulate yourself. Of course, if you have a bad plug wire, you could get a jolt just by grabbing it in the right place while the car's running anyway.
Whatever method you use to check for spark, make sure you're not leaning against the car while doing so - the car is the 'negative' part of the circuit, and leaning against or touching any metal part of the car while holding onto your plug wires will help complete the circuit through you - causing you to 'get bit' by the car. Rarely is it fatal, but it's not exactly a recommended form of recreation, either... but then again, neither is inhaling paint fumes, but people still do it.
I would take care of the basic stuff (I mentioned earlier) first, then either have an auto parts store plug their tester into your ECU and check for codes, or replace the burned out [or more likely removed by the P.O.] CEL bulb and observe any 'flash' or 'blink' codes to help with any sensors or other conditions that are potentially bad. The Honda ECUs are pretty good about telling you what it thinks is wrong with the car - it's not always right, but it knows what it isn't happy with and will generally lead you in the right direction. Not to mention the majority of the folks here are usually quite helpful when it comes to tracking down the things the ECU codes and/or CEL 'flash/blink' codes actually mean.
But it's your money, time, and effort. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
To check for spark, first check the plug wires for continuity (using a volt meter on the 'Ohms' setting - one probe on each end - it should 'zero out' if it's good). Also check the plugs using the volt meter by putting one probe on the end the plug wire snaps onto, and the other probe on the center electrode on the business end making sure not to touch any other part. Check all of the plugs and wires in this manner and that will clear the plugs and wires.
The safest way I know to check the engine's ignition system for spark is to use an inductive timing light, and move the inductive pick-up to each plug wire - it'll cause the gun to flash if spark is present. Start (or attempt to start) the car and watch for the light to flash - that's it... move to the next wire.
A not-as-safe way is to pull the end of the plug wire (one at a time) away from the distributor cap about a half-inch, holding it with something insulated (plug wire pliers works the best), and have a friend try to start the engine for a second or two - you should see a spark jumping between cap and wire rather quickly... which is all you need. Don't actually start the car and run it in this manner. You can also use a screwdriver inserted into the end of the plug wire and hold it so the metal shaft of the screwdriver is about a half-inch from something conductive on the block (usually right next to where the spark plug is works best). You can check either end of the wire or both if you like, but since you've already checked the wires and plugs for continuity, you shouldn't have to.
Be careful using these methods of checking for spark - you could get a jolt if you don't properly insulate yourself. Of course, if you have a bad plug wire, you could get a jolt just by grabbing it in the right place while the car's running anyway.
Whatever method you use to check for spark, make sure you're not leaning against the car while doing so - the car is the 'negative' part of the circuit, and leaning against or touching any metal part of the car while holding onto your plug wires will help complete the circuit through you - causing you to 'get bit' by the car. Rarely is it fatal, but it's not exactly a recommended form of recreation, either... but then again, neither is inhaling paint fumes, but people still do it.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
It seems like someone messed with the odometer and tried to forced the numbers back and broke it. The roller has scratch marks on it and it was pulled out from the gauge seal. The whole cluster itself doesn't seem to be from my car model. I think I'll just end up buying a new one, one that is more specific to my car.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
Front cluster. I am guessing this is from an EX model.
Back cluster. there seem to be no available connector that goes into that green plug in the middle next to the yellow. Anywho, where does the connector goes to for the odometer on this thing? Everything was plugged expect that little green in the bottom middle part when I removed it.
Back cluster. there seem to be no available connector that goes into that green plug in the middle next to the yellow. Anywho, where does the connector goes to for the odometer on this thing? Everything was plugged expect that little green in the bottom middle part when I removed it.
HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 409
From: San Angelo, TX
It seems like someone messed with the odometer and tried to forced the numbers back and broke it. The roller has scratch marks on it and it was pulled out from the gauge seal. The whole cluster itself doesn't seem to be from my car model. I think I'll just end up buying a new one, one that is more specific to my car.
You simply don't know.
You might consider doing a VIN check with the DMV, just to make sure you won't have issues later when things like registration and stuff finally catch up with you.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sounds like your car could've been 'boosted' after all - in the way you originally thought. People only [attempt to] rollback the odometer if there's stuff to hide. It could've been done for a sinister reason (like the car was stolen and they're trying to sell some hot parts). Or it could've been as simple as the P.O. trying to hide the 'real' mileage on the car so he could lie to a potential buyer for a couple more bucks.
You simply don't know.
You might consider doing a VIN check with the DMV, just to make sure you won't have issues later when things like registration and stuff finally catch up with you.
You simply don't know.
You might consider doing a VIN check with the DMV, just to make sure you won't have issues later when things like registration and stuff finally catch up with you.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 141
From: Brooklyn, NY
On another note, I put the cluster back. I had switch the trunk light for the CEL light and now it shows that the CEL is on. Now the Odometer still doesn't work as I didn't do much other then put it back the way I found it.Though, when I had it in my hands and looked at it, the wheels seems ok and they turned fine, the odometer and trip meter. I haven't drove the car to test it. My guess is the speedometer would have to be the one thing that tells me if the odometer is damage or not. So I am sticking with what RonJ suggested that the VSS is bad and to look into that.