Hey guys I am new here, I just bought a EK and I am gonna the k20 swap in it. All I wanna know if any of you guys can help me out a little. I just wanna know what are the requirement to complete this swap. Like engine mounts harness,ect. Basically I would like to get a list of things that I would need for the swap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

For future reference, please use the search feature for this kind of question. If you absolutely can not find the answer by searching, then create a new thread.

Anyway,

-Long block
-Transmission
-ECU
-Engine harness
-shifter assembly (with cables)
-swap-specific (EK/K20) mounts
-swap-specific (EK/K20) axles

And in general, it's never a bad idea to swap out maintenance parts (ie, timing chain/belt, tensioner, plugs, water pump, etc) and the clutch while the engine is out of the car during a swap. For a K20, you'll have to make a few cuts in the body to make a path for the shifter assembly and shifter cables.

 

I believe you need a new fpr too.

 

Thanks guys.

 

This swap is a bit pricy, just beaware of that.

 

How much is the price of the K20 (complete and running) compared to your J32 swap? Just curious.

 

Lets say the K20 from a RSX-S
After all said and done.... about 10K

Now take the J32a2 from a 03 TL-S
After all said and done.....about 5K

Now this info is from a good friend of mine who has a K20 in his hatch, and then droped a J32 in his Del Sol.

 

Oh wow, that is awesome. Didn't realize that! How do the numbers compare between the two?

 

Which run's more hard stock??

 

With the K motor you can have 2 choices for the motor mounts.
You have the Ekk1, this kit sits the motor very close to the rad support
This kit also gives you the worst angle on your axels, i know alot of people who snap there axels because of this kit.
The resion for this kit (Ekk1) is because this kit keeps your OEM subframe.

Then you have the Ekk2 kit
This 1 push's you motor almost to the firewall, with this kit you have to use 92-95 Eg or DC2 subframe, this 1 gives you your best bet for your axels.

As i understand, the K20 from a RSX-S weighs a little more then a B-Series
This is what my friends tell me.

The Ekj1 was done right the 1st time.
These mounts sit right on the axels dead nuts.
Now Hasport tells you need a Eg or DC2 subframe, i tell you no, just need to make a small cut in the subframe and it fits fine.

The Ekj2 is just like the 1st kit, its just made so you can lower the motor so the hood can colse......but your oil pan is a inch off the ground.
This kit is great for drag raceing.....thats it, i would stick with the Ekj1.

Now i am not going to lie, this is a heavy motor, about 100 to 120 at the most heaver then the K, but you dont feel it.

Now both motors run good, the K-Series people are still learning new things about and numbers are still climbing

The J-Series is a new toy for the Honda game, not many company's are makeing things for it because times are hard, and since the K has been out they are sticking to what they know.
But as anyone with a J will tell you, this motor has a ton of potential.

Rsx-Type S
201 hp and 140 lb-ft of torque. You've got to get the revs up to really hit the sweet spot – peak hp doesn't arrive until 7800 rpm, and peak torque hits at 7000 rpm.

03 Acura CL-Type S
3.2-liter, SOHC VTEC V-6
Horsepower,225 hp @ 5600 rpm 260 hp @ 6100 rpm
Torque, 216 lb-ft @ 4700 rpm 232 lb-ft @ 3500-5500 rpm
Redline 6300 rpm 6900 rpm

07 Acura TL Sport
Horsepower at RPM: 286 / 6200
Torque at RPM: 256 / 5000
Redline at RPM: 6800