Based on your information, you must bleed the brake hydraulic system regardless of whether or not you replace the wheel cylinder. Otherwise, your brakes may fail.

 

Is the Hose Pincher harmful to the hose? I will apply it to hose to replace the wheel cyliner.

Also what is the name of the part which runs between the cylinder and the hose?

 

FRONT OR REAR BRAKES?

im asuming the front since you say hose...

you really need to get pictures of where the problem is to point out to us....

if your working on the soft brake lines then you defiantly need to buy some line wrenches! they are pretty much a boxed wrench with a slice of the boxed section cut out so you can slide the wrench over the line and down onto the head....

but if your just taking the soft line off from the caliper itself then a standard socket will do the job just fine. BUT before you remove the line have some duct tape or something ready to try and cap the end of the hose... otherwise gravity will pull the fluid all the way from the brake booster tank leaving your lines dry and full of air....


and NO if the piston is out from the caliper NO air should be in the system... thats just the pressure from the fluid and worn brake pads combination... you have to push the piston back in since your replacing the brake pads with new thick ones. compressing the piston back into the caliper pushes the fluid back into the brake booster. its full of fluid not air. and if your caliper is leaking fluid THEN the system is no longer sealed and then air can get into the system.

we trying to help ya BUT we cannt tell you exactly what to do if we dont know what the problem really is...

and theirs no such thing as a bleeder nut... its just a bleeder valve and if anything its a bleeder bolt... if your autoparts store doesnt have bleeder valves then THEY SUCK.LOL
http://a763.g.akamai.net/7/763/1644/.../img11/img.jpg
thats basicaly what they look like... tho probably shorter.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
THO NOT SURE WHAT THE CIVICS STOCK BLEEDER THREAD SIZE IS....

 

and NO DO NOT PINCH THAT SOFT BRAKE LINE!!!!!! its a hydrolic line.... if you crush it it can easily stay collapsed and then after you hit the brakes the pressure will build in the caliper and when you let off the pinched line that is crushed in one spot will hold the pressure in and your brakes will stay engaged and will warp your rotors and destroy your pads and rotors also from the brake pads being worn out really fast!!!!



not to be a ***** but SERIOUSLY if your having that much issues take it to a brake shop to have it done professionally! you dont cheap out on brakes if you dont know exactly what your doing first.....

 

The metal pipe is just called brake line. If you don't want to wait for an exact pre-bent replacement from the dealer, you can buy straight lengths with the fittings already attached at a parts store. Then bend it yourself to fit. The special bending tool (which you can borrow from most parts stores) is almost essential. Also make sure to buy the line with metric fittings.

 

Got it. bought a stright pipe and bent it. It works fine.

Now, replaced the wheel cylinder, break line, and bleeded fluid, refilled the DOT3 to the MAX level. The brake padel is very hard now. Thanks to you all.

Then, tried to start the car. this is what happens.

When the key turns to the end, all the indicators are flashing, and da, da, da sound comes behind the meter assembly. No sound comes from the starter.

I don't think bleeding fluid will cause this problem. Will check the bettery, because the car has been parking there around 2 weeks.

 

ya probably just dead battery.

but a word of advice... take it for a quick test drive, making sure to pump the brakes before you put it in gear since the first 2-3 pumps of the brakes need to build up pressure to actualy stop the vehicle. and jus tmake it a quick test drive then go back home jack the car up and inspect the brake lines for leaks...

its best to go the extra mile with brakes and when i install lines on the brakes i use some teflon tape on all the threads and if the brake lines have copper washers then i replace those copper crush washers. just a word of advice if you have a leak you might have to take the lines off and use some thread sealer like some teflon tape.

 

After the battery was charged in Autozone, the car started. I ran the car for 10 miles. The brake is ok.

Thanks all for your help.

 

Congrats on the successful repair. Keep an eye out for leaks, which will be evident by the fluid level dropping in the reservoir. This can leave you suddenly without brakes if it all leaks out. So over the next few days, pop the hood and check that the level is staying up.

Teflon tape on the threads will not prevent leaks. The seal is made by the metal on metal contact of the flared surfaces, not the thread like NPT pipe does. The nut just presses the flared parts together. Now if you have teflon lubricating the threads you could get the nut tighter.

 

Sounds like the bleeder was cross-threaded by someone who worked on those brakes before you. If you were able to loosen it 1/4 turn and it didn't get any easier to turn it was almost certainly cross threaded. You'll have to replace the wheel cylinder which is a piece of cake and not too expensive.