The flywheel bolts to the motor
The clutch disk has to fit the input shaft
The pressure plate has to fit the flywheel
You need a slave cylinder otherwise you can't push the pressure plate

 

i understand those but is it part specific like for the transmission does the clutch have to be for that specific year of the transmission. Does the fly wheel for example which mounts to the engine have to be for a 1998 crv. Thanks for adding on but thats what I needed to know not to sound snobby or like an ***.

 

Coming along with the Swap. People I know tell me to get a 7.7lbs flywheel along with a clutch. anyone have good set up on a stock engine for fast gear changing and what clutch kit/flywheel and if a brand matters.

 

Too light of a flywheel will make your revs drop quickly between shifts. Drivability suffers at the expense of a few more HP. It'll be quick revving though.

Brand definitely matters. Cheap parts tend to be of lower quality, in most cases. Competition Clutch is a good manufacturer. If you're not putting more torque down compared to stock specs, a stage 1, 2, 3+ clutch is useless. It isn't going to give you more power. Exedy is the OEM manufacturer of Honda clutches.

I hope you understand now that pretty much all B series clutch parts are interchangeable, with exception of early cable B series clutch disks...

 

in theory buying a 8.8lbs flywheel will be used for more horsepower if you are able to clutch and shift efficiently. Then just mate it with an oem spec exedy clutch kit and then put them together with engine and transmission?

 

That's what I would do, mate the lightweight one with an oem spec exedy. I mean, if you want to try a staged clutch, go for it, it won't be bad. You don't have to do an OEM replacement, you just won't take advantage of the clamping power of a staged clutch with your build... unless you've got boost on the way.

Lightweight flywheel will just make more power available to the wheels. It won't increase crank horsepower.

 

Awesome thanks for the 2 cents. When removing fuel lines and ac lines, what is the best route as well as removing stuff from the firewall and labeling them. First swap thats why im asking stupid questions.

 

Call around to find a place to discharge the AC, or just crack the line and run while it depressurizes... but it is illegal, so just know the circumstances.

Fuel lines, open your gas cap and crack the line on the fuel rail to depressurize it.

 

Got the fuel line pressure released. Waiting until i figure out what i have to reuse before taking stuff out.

Working on figuring out what is located at the fire-wall which i have to label.

 

that's like 10 minutes of work. c'mon dude start doing work. :P