1989 civic dx hatch build
#11
I will try and comment on the quoted text below. You have already come a long way form expecting 800 whp and 800 wtq so far.
-VTEC, no "h".
-You want a cold air intake, and an intake manifold? They are two different parts.
-What are you think of doing with your crank? I would just leave it alone unless it needs work.
-Good luck with AWD. You are looking at spending like 2-5 times the amount you paid for the car for something like this.
-AEM makes suspension like struts? Not doubting you, just never saw or heard of them before.
-Why a custom gas tank? Just remove the gas tank you have now and install a fuel cell in the trunk if you really want something different or lighter.
-Brakes... not breaks.
-Why the sticker or "jdm" logo? If you like it, that's fine. Just don't get caught up in the JD< fad.
-Tach? Why not swap in a CRX cluster that has a tach already in it? Should be plug and play and it will look clean.
-What brand front seats are you looking at?
I would not buy anything transmission related unless you know exactly what transmission set-up you decide on.
-You want a cold air intake, and an intake manifold? They are two different parts.
-What are you think of doing with your crank? I would just leave it alone unless it needs work.
Transmission and Suspension
-Sir Crx Transmission
-Sir 4WD del sol transmission(maybe)
-Civic Wagovan Differential upgrade
-Civic Wagovan Driveshaft
-Larger Custom Made Gas Tank
-Tien Coilovers
-AEM Struts Front and Rear
-Yellow Stuff Break Upgrades
-Sir Crx Transmission
-Sir 4WD del sol transmission(maybe)
-Civic Wagovan Differential upgrade
-Civic Wagovan Driveshaft
-Larger Custom Made Gas Tank
-Tien Coilovers
-AEM Struts Front and Rear
-Yellow Stuff Break Upgrades
-AEM makes suspension like struts? Not doubting you, just never saw or heard of them before.
-Why a custom gas tank? Just remove the gas tank you have now and install a fuel cell in the trunk if you really want something different or lighter.
-Brakes... not breaks.
Exterior and Interior
-JDM Wakaba Logo Under Driver Side Mirror on Front Left Fender
-Exterior Paint Mineral Gray with a Matte Finish
-Sir Crx Front End Lower
-Sir Crx Front, Rear Lights, and Turn Lights
-Techometer
-Reapolstured Rear Back Bench Seat
-Bucket Front Seats
-Short Throw Shifter
-Sir Crx Lower Exhaust Cat and Exhaust Piping
-JDM Wakaba Logo Under Driver Side Mirror on Front Left Fender
-Exterior Paint Mineral Gray with a Matte Finish
-Sir Crx Front End Lower
-Sir Crx Front, Rear Lights, and Turn Lights
-Techometer
-Reapolstured Rear Back Bench Seat
-Bucket Front Seats
-Short Throw Shifter
-Sir Crx Lower Exhaust Cat and Exhaust Piping
-Tach? Why not swap in a CRX cluster that has a tach already in it? Should be plug and play and it will look clean.
-What brand front seats are you looking at?
I would not buy anything transmission related unless you know exactly what transmission set-up you decide on.
#12
looking at a bucket type seat maybe bride or sparco but they get exspensive
the 4wd transmission need like differentails and gas tank adjustments but the si transmission i want for acceleration the 4wd would help me better achieve that goal
the 4wd transmission need like differentails and gas tank adjustments but the si transmission i want for acceleration the 4wd would help me better achieve that goal
#13
I wouldn't try to go AWD if you're at this. Thats gonna get really expensive as it requires tons of custom fabbing. It'll triple the cost of the build, easily. If you're dead set on AWD, get a wagovan or a subaru.
And why is everyone telling him to get a d16a6? I always thought the d16z6 was a much better choice....
oh, and one more thing, you said that piston upgrades were a possible choice. If you plan on boosting AT ALL, then yes... you will HAVE TO upgrade the pistons. There is no "maybe".
I've got a 4 inch tach I'm looking to get rid of, if you're interested. I sure as hell don't want it.
Also, don't **** with the crank. Honda cranks don't like to be messed with. When people go that far into a build, they usually ditch the factory crank all together.
300hp on a D series isn't hard, but when you get that high, D's like to crack cylinder walls. So unless you want to resleeve the engine, I'd consider making your goals a bit more realistic OR considering going with a bigger engine. Perhaps a B series? It'll be more expensive, but they can handle more power on factory sleeves. Granted, this is all just here-say, I haven't had any personal experience with it. This just comes from years and years of reading about it on the interwebz.
And why is everyone telling him to get a d16a6? I always thought the d16z6 was a much better choice....
oh, and one more thing, you said that piston upgrades were a possible choice. If you plan on boosting AT ALL, then yes... you will HAVE TO upgrade the pistons. There is no "maybe".
I've got a 4 inch tach I'm looking to get rid of, if you're interested. I sure as hell don't want it.
Also, don't **** with the crank. Honda cranks don't like to be messed with. When people go that far into a build, they usually ditch the factory crank all together.
300hp on a D series isn't hard, but when you get that high, D's like to crack cylinder walls. So unless you want to resleeve the engine, I'd consider making your goals a bit more realistic OR considering going with a bigger engine. Perhaps a B series? It'll be more expensive, but they can handle more power on factory sleeves. Granted, this is all just here-say, I haven't had any personal experience with it. This just comes from years and years of reading about it on the interwebz.
#14
the reason i threw awd out there ways because i want acceleration and idk about the si transmission but i hear the gears are extremely short. I want to upgrade pistons for a turbo build but i want to put the y8 head on a non-vtec engine because the y8 block to me personally is just garbage. the crank i wanted to maybe upgrade for reasons they said it was for better i guess turbo and pooling, so things dont go crazy. i will definetly sleeve the engine in the future. currently i want to just get a good block with a v-tec head. Good transmissin with acceeration that is manual. then upgrade handling like sway bars, brakes and coilovers. Maybe tires.
#16
to make that kind of power NA, you'll need to go with an H22 or go K-series. A K could do 220 and not even break a sweat. Hell, a K20 can do it with a couple bolt ons. I've seen K series do almost 400hp NA.... of course it was stroked the **** out and was in a complete drag car.
You can do damn near anything you want with enough money and determination.
I'd say go H22, but if you've got plenty of money, go K.
You can do damn near anything you want with enough money and determination.
I'd say go H22, but if you've got plenty of money, go K.
#17
if you want that sort of power... seriously... get a different motor... there are so many swap mounts available for cheap. explicit speed makes a good F/H swap kit.
The motor you're trying to make power from... is for economy.
You realize that you'll need to tune your car as well, right? It won't run properly (or possibly at all?) if you don't tune. You have to seeee the work that needs to be put into it.
Heck, I'm ready to ditch my EF and get an EK.