i love how your trailer project is coming along nicely. i've been following it on facebook. can't wait for that trailer to get lowered.

i'm planning to redo my gauges to white LED's instead of blue that i got now. i think it will be a lot slicker. what do you think?

also i see that you got DDM hids thats where i want to buy mines from as well. should i go with 35 watts or 55 watts? and also what temperature do you got on that truck? i'm undecided on whether to get 4300k or 5000k. what do you think i should get.

 

as to ur gauges.... kinda your preference. they both look nice. i thought about blue for my truck but decided to go with white to try and get my needles white instead of blue.
and the DDM hids, well i havent tried there 35watt ones but the higher wattage should be brighter which i think it is slightly brighter and i like em alot. i went with the 6K ones because i like the mostly white with a hint of blue. but so far very happy with the DDM HIDS dirt cheap and work great so far and i love how small those ballasts are compared to my old cheap ones!

 

i might go with the 55watt ones then, i had 6000k before and i like them but right now i'm going for a more oem hid look. but just contemplating whether 4300k or 5000k is the one that i am looking for

 

IMO, 55 watts is excessive and will blind the **** out of oncoming traffic. DDM tuning is not a bad place to buy HIDs, as long as you are not in a rush to get them. 4300k should give you the most "visible" light, but 5k is the whitest. 5k gets my vote.

 

well when i ordered mine i got them within a week. and i ordered 2 sets.
as to the blinding thats all in how your headlights are adjusted!
i love being able to blind the crap outta people wheni need to with my high beams now! i got this one person that i see just about every other day on my way to work at 530am that keeps there bright lights on and WILL NOT DIMM THEM!!!! that crap pisses me off so much i flash and flash and flash even blow my loud *** air horn and still this dumb *** will not dimm the brights. im just about ready to block the road get out of my truck and confront this person, or maybe at least pull a Uturn write down there plate info and call the cops about this issue its just rediculous! not dimming your high beams is illegal! and before you say it its not just me ive had several cars infront of me and behind me before and the dumb *** still doesnt dim the brights!

but anyways enough rant....
unfortunately doesnt look like im going to get any work done to the trailer this week.... if its not the cold temps its the rain that will keep me from working on it. i wanna get this thing at least fully primered before my pops comes back from florida so i can kinda punk him im gonna tell him my project was cutting up his work truck to make this trailer and just see the reaction on his face.lol right now he just knows im working on a project that hes not going to know about till im done with it.
im sure he would believe ive doing some stupid **** like that cutting up his good truck.lol tho im better than that. should be a good punk.


o ya id vote at least 5K temp as well. 4300 ya kinda getting some yellow if im not mistaken.

 

That is correct. The slightest bit of yellow, but it is there if you look hard enough. I would really suggest going with 35w.

 

I love trucks

I read all of this I still believe you should bag it!!
My ex has a bagged and body dropped truck I think they are so BA... Id never build one...on second thought yes I would..

But I loveee this project!!!

Great work!

 

thanks. i would love to bag it BUT at the same time i dont want to cheap out so its gonna cost me quite a bit! but it will be daily drivable year round.
my plan for STARTING the bag setup is pretty simple, first do the front, its the cheapest and easiest, simple bags, modify stock lower control arms for the bags and dehump them, notch frame for tierods, and then remove the stock inner fenders and tub them.
and at first i will just use my current air setup compressor and tank wise. then the front will be on air so i could lift and drop it really low at will.
THEN i will work on the nice air system, and id like to go very nice with a programmable unit since it will be a daily driver id just like to get in and hit a preset button and be sure PSI is all good for highway cruisen.
and then well ill be saving money for ALONG TIME... and go with the rear, which would be KP kit with cani links as well. needless to say that bolt on rear setup wont be cheap! like 1-2K bucks total.
then its sectioning the bed floor out and lifting the whole floor up to clear a large notch, not sure how large yet, largest i wanna go EVER is 20s on my truck.... but i dont plan on having the rear linked any time soon. but the front i want to bag it by this winter sometime. i just dont want it to look like POO!!!!! so i will be taking my time. ive already researched alot for the air setup from a few years ago. hardest thing will be tweaking the engine bay to fit the tubs and locate my computer and abs stuff to still look nice, that will be trial and error im sure.
ive only seen a few engine bays and none of them looked that great to me! so i might be doing alot of work, mainly soldering a ton of wires for the computer to stretch it to the front corner. and everything else is all in the air...
i just dont like dragging my trucks front and bottoming out on the inner fenders every now and then! id love to just hit a switch and lift the whole front at certain places i know i will rub or drag.




O YA alittle back on topic, i havent done much to the trailer lately. its been way to cold and rainy out... plus i forgot to order my primers reducer. so hopefully ill get that by this weekend and IF ALL IS GOOD, temp/rain/wind wise then sunday ill be doing my first primer job on the bed. i got fingers crossed sunday will be a good day, and that ill also get my reducer before then! tracking number says the 20th i should have it.. i guess it all depends on the rain and wind now if ill primer it sat or sunday! temps look great so far but its indiana weather.... it could change FAST
only work ive done to the trailer is i used a eraser disk to remove all the old side molding left over glue residue and i must say THAT THING RULES!!!!!!!!! slapped it on the electric drill and just spun the glue crap right off while it left the stock paint perfect! i know highly recomend that thing! cost me 17bucks for the one which is quite nice seeing how if i did it the old fashion way.... well my fingers would hurt very bad and id have to still do ALOT more work!!!!! with the eraser disk it only took me about 20 mins to do the whole molding plus the pin strip that was on the bed also.

 

well i got alittle more work done on my trailer project....
i got it mostly sanded, only thing i didnt sand was the complete floor of the bed because its just not worth all the work sanding it, i wasnt going to primer it at first but decided why not, should help it from not rusting for alittle bit with the drop in liner. but i sanded everything else!
and primered the bed with high build primer, im hoping its think enough to fill some scratches and paint flake spots. now i gotta block sand the whole thing and fill afew dents that i missed. i got like 3-4dents that i know about that could use a little filler. 2 or 3 of them are small and not really needed since the top rail will be hidden by the tono cover rails but while im at it i might as well.

i also got matching gmc center caps for the wheels. old black ones didnt look right so i bought a brand new set of 4 and put the new ones on my truck and my good old 2 caps on the trailer.
matchs alot better with the chrome over the black!













the bumpers getting replaced tho. im taking my saw to the junk yard tomorrow and hopefully find a nice stock bumper! and yes im gonna hack it off because to unbolt it is gonna be to tuff with hand tools.LOL im gonna be lazy!


only thing im not sure about at this point is paint.... i was going to paint it to match perfectly my truck BUT after thinking about it more... its a trailer so im sure its gonna get scratched up so i dont want to spend the extra money for a 2stage paint/clear only to scratch it and try touching it up when it does happen... but if i get a single stage paint then its a very simple paint brush and block and buff and it will look like it never happened. SO right now im going to ask my paint shop if they have a single stage option for me and how much! ill find out tomorrow. guess it depends whats the price difference in the two! id rather match color perfectly, mainly because i still have to paint my front grill to match also
but if the single stage paint is cheaper im gonna be going that route for the bed. and maybe just buy a quart to paint my front grill and hood this summer.

and if they cannt single stage it then its a coin tose if i will match it or go dirt cheap and go simple flat black.

and tomorrow im also going to drive around and find a place that makes Ubolts so i can flip the axle on this trailer to lower it 6inches to match my truck better!


o ya ps you wouldnt believe how much heavier the front tongue is without the rear bumper and tailgate!!!!! freakin nuts!
im going to replace the rear bumper and add a rear trailer hitch, mainly just for my custom lighted skull hitch cover.

 

^ Dude if u rhinolined or herculined the bed and the top edges (blanking on the proper name) of the bed then you could paint match to ur truck so itd look so much more legit. I dont think that ur truck has a bed liner like that but i could be wrong. Thats what id do tho...just my $0.02