It is pretty easy job. Just have to pull the head, might as well put a new timing belt if you feel like it. You will need a new headgasket, not too expensive from Honda. I get mine super cheap since I work for Acura, cost me $25 I think for my y8 headgasket.

Box end wrench will fit right on that.

 

I've never pulled a head before, the farthest i've done was remove the rocker assembly, to change a friends cam..
And yeah its nice getting parts for a discount uh! my dad works at ACDELCO and i get tons of parts for a fraction of the price lol. I got my exhaust gasket for about 6 dollars


Yeah but how would i torque it?
Call me an idiot idc. lol

 

That wouldn't fall on my list of things to precisionly torque. What do they put as torque spec on those... like 20 ft lbs? That is one of those things I don't go to spec... like spark plugs or suspension parts lol. Things like head studs or lug nuts or any drain plug I do actually torque to spec lol. Just do a normal pattern criss cross style gradually getting tight. It is pretty easy to know when it is tight enough, you have the metal gasket there so you don't need to tighten the **** out of it, just enough to mate the surfaces together.

And you can't torque things accurately using universal joints :P. Extensions don't affect it but joints like that will throw your torque off.

 

Thanks for clarifiying that haha.
I just wasnt sure. I guess some things just aren't ment to be torqued..

 

Yea a lot of peple don't believe in torque specs haha, most times you just have to go by feel and know when to stop. My dealership is really **** about use torqueing down lug nuts and drain plugs... defintely something people overlook lol. We never have our own cars come back with stripped out drain plugs from over torqueing. And I know Reaper's dealership doesn't make them use a torque wrench on lugs... but some people are so damn stupid they don't even use a torque stick. Few weeks ago I broke every 2 out of 4 wheel locks on a car because they were tightened so tight last time they were put and from time going by they got so insanely tight that they just snapped in half. Customer got 2 new rims out of it because I had to use an air chisel to spin them off and did a lot of damage to the rim lol.

Long post that meant a little, pretty much torque specs aren't necessary most of the time.

 

If my auto teacher caught me not torqueing something in front of him, he would probably kick me in the face.
haha.

But yeah i agree i dont torque anything usually. (dont own a torque wrench yet, lol)
I just dont wanna break something on my first start up lol

 

I almost got all my pipes set up. Just gotta cut a few of them to make it all come together.
gonna go out to summit racing tomorrow to grab a coupler reducer needed for my turbo. 2in to 2.5.

 

And just to make sure i know what im doing,
Since my turbo is internal wastegated, All i do is hook up a hose from the wastegate to the turbo pressure nipple, and splice in between the hose and hook up my MBC.

And for my BOV, i just tap into my Break booster line before the check valve, (or any other vaccum) and run it to the nipple on the BOV.

Correct?
Seems too easy...haha

 

Going to have to extend my O2 Sensor like 3 inches.
Hopefully that doesnt change any readings, I'll be soldering them and heat wrapping them. I'll be doing them on the sensor side, in case it doesnt work, i'll just replace it.
Im guessing a few inches shouln'd add much resistance specially if my connections are good.

 

That is fine to add to the o2. I extended mine like 8 inches when I moved my primary o2 to the back to tuck it, the header I have has the o2 bung at the bottom instead of in a runner. And a good solder joint shouldn't raise your resistance much at all.

And you can just get a vacuum block and just tap off of it. It'll look a lot cleaner.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Golde...Q5fAccessories