Ugh Sad Sad day for a Steelers fan (me)

 

Time for an update that will bring disappoint! A few plans have been changed...

I'm not going to build or swap a motor in RIGHT NOW, pretty much I don't feel like putting out the money for it, and to build a motor by April is plenty of time, but I also don't like being rushed like that. So right now I am going to put the y8 back in, further down I'll post what all needs to be done.

Disapointment #2, no more major brake line tuck like I wanted. After looking there really isn't a good place for me to bring the proportioning valve in to the car. BUT, to still clean up the firewall I am going to probably mount it lower down the firewall so it isn't as visible.

I did mock up my harness today and figured out where the wire are going to go and parted them, ready to be depinned and wrapped with my flame retardent expandable sleeving.

OKAY here is my list of what I need to buy!
-Slave cylinder -$20 for an Exedy one
-Motor mounts - $300 Looking at Drop Engineering
-Stainless steel braided clutch line - $60ish
-Headgasket and timing belt - $58 with my discount through work
-I want the head tanked and milled - $50
-Clutch - $200 Either get an Exedy oem replacement or a staged clutch
-Front brakes - $100+ Rotors, pads, calipers
-Input shaft bearing - Not sure on price yet, depends on which bearings. A tech at work will be doing this with me so I don't mess anything up since I've never tore a transmission down before.
-Fuel injector gaskets - $30... I'm an idiot and threw the originals out
-IACV gasket - $2
-Aluminum radiator and slim fan and hoses - $100 eBay ftw
-Battery relocation - $100

AKA I have a lot of money to spend... which I don't want to lol. As I sit here now I am thinking to myself I don't even want to get motor mounts since that is $300... but I should get them anyway. I hate spending money, I've got bills to pay on tools but at the same time I want to spend it on my car... ugh I hate this. I hate that I got in to cars...


Picture time?
My new addition to my tools... Milwaukee 18v light, goes with my impact/drill set I have, cost $30 for it and uses the same batteries, it is awesome!

Here's a bunch of tuck pics. Injector wires are going to come up from the middle of the intake manifold.

And as you can see in the last pic, the EVAP purge switch is no longer mounted on the fuel rail. I relocated it to under the intake, I just need to get a longer tube so it can reach the vacuum nipple on the intake. But it will be bolted to the intake manifold brace.

Wires from behind, everything hooked up.

And how much wire coming off the back I have, this is what is going through the firewall. Not exactly sure where I am going to have the ecu plug in, it looks as though the ecu will be at the passengers feet by the length of the wire, which is fine with me. I'll unplug the ecu most of the time anyway.

Everything IS plugged in, the wires are all ran the way I want them too, pretty well hidden I must say.

Aerial view of everything.

EVAP holes drileld out and it now matches up.

And started to depin stuff and put the sleeving on. MOST of the harness will be done with this stuff. Pretty much the plugs will be done, I'm not going to use the sleeving on the parts of the harness that go to the ecu since that is like 50 wires and I don't plan on depinning all of them, not worth the time. So for those I'll go with the old fashion plastic wire loom, which is fine with me.

And my camera doesn't take the best pics up close. But I found a label maker we had so I decided I am going to put them on every plug, and put clear packaging tape over it to hold it on. Makes it look more professional and easier on me in the future knowing what is what.

 

Just spent the last hour pricing out everything I have left to buy for my car to get it where I want.

Total: about $766.53

I've got a bunch of stuff I'm getting through work, only thing not in that total is if I get the head tanked and milled which I really SHOULD.

But here's what I've all chosen to get:

~Napa premium rotors - $21.49 each (2)
~OEM pads - $40.38
~Caliper bolt (lost one) - $2.37
~OEM timing belt and head gasket - $58ish
~Exedy slave cylinder - $17.99
~Stainless steel braded clutch line - $59
~Input shaft bearing (I think I know which one) - $18
~OEM intake manifold gasket - $5.05
~Injector seal - $1.21 (4)
~Injector cushion ring - $2.26 (4)
~OEM throttle body gasket - $3.29
~IACV gasket - $1.75
~eBay aluminum radiator and slim fan - $88
~OEM lower rad hose - $12.13
~OEM upper rad hose - $8.61
~Clutch reserve tank bracket - $8.16
~Clutch tank to master line - $1.94
~Drop Engineering motor mounts - $300
~Battery box and relocation kit - $85

Obviously there will be other misc. moneys spent on paint and what not, but that's my main stuff I have to get. Parts at work will love my with my big list!

 

Nice work on the tuck! Looks good.

Glad to see you're going with the Drop Mounts. They are definitely a good buy.

 

Alright ladies time for an update.

I've decided on my plans for this car and I am going to STICK TO THEM. Sick of changing my mind on boosting the d, boosting an ls swap, fully built all motor lsv... blah blah blah. SO, I've always loved the sleeperness of D series so I will stick to my cars roots. Here's the plan:

-Finish up my bay and appearence stuff and prep motor
-Wheels and suspension, will be autocrossing this year
-Boost the motor during the summer, go for around 200 hp
-Winter rolls around again, yank the y8 once again, and fully build the bottom end.
-Next spring, 300+ hp

Literaly like 30 minutes ago I sent Trust money for his new Competition Stage 2 clutch he has as well as an oem rear main seal. So that will be on its way and I just ordered my ARP head studs as well. This week I WILL work on the bay. I am off Wednesday so it will be an all day event. I want to have my welding done by the end of the month. Then spend the first half of March getting my motor back together. It will need the flywheel resurfaced and the head milled flat again. Pretty much the first half of March, I want the motor ready to go back in. So that way I have the last half of March to get it together, do any last painting of the bay or anything, and half 2 weeks to get the interior all back together, battery cables ran, engine all hooked up, any kinks worked out, and ready to drive by April 1st.


I got all the oem stuff I needed the other day at work. Paid 10% over the dealer cost... so I got it all cheap to say the least.

I also looked in to something a fellow coworker told me, and anyone looking to upgrade rear sway bar, buy an oem itr one. They are cheaper than any aftermarket... for ME through work (10% over dealership fee) I can get the 22mm itr rear sway bar for like $65... where as a Progress one is like $150. So I'll defintely be getting one with a subframe brace in a few monthes.

I've got a whole 2 pics, got a pic of my box of all my lovely oem stuff. And I polished up my oem fuel rail, I plan on getting an aftermarket, but for now this will serve its purpose as well as look nice.

 

Spent the night working on the harness. I Wrapped a lot of the thick parts with electrical tape, tight and consitent wrapping so I think it looks fine, not ghetto at all. I might buy the plastic tubing like the stuff that comes on it from factory and put that over it... I used the flame retardent sheathing I have on the "arms" going off the main pathes to the clips, so when you see like the injector plugs and stuff they'll look good. The difference between ScottBays and Chasebays is that Chase's whole harness looks good... my harness only looks good in the visible spots, the rest looks like **** LOL!

My fancy plugs:

And the whole thing... I broke one plugs lock so I am going to grab a new plug for it from work, we have spare harnesses from all sorts of things sitting around. And I need to extend the evap canister plug as well, and repair my vtec pressure switch wire since I cut it when I was tking the old tape and stuff off.

 

Where'd you get the sheathing stuff? and how much was it?

 

I got it on eBay. I can give you the link to it, really good seller. I didn't see they had flame retardant sleeves until after i bought normal so I messages him about switching my order and he called me the next day and said he was shipping the retardant. I bought a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2. They come in 25 foot lengths, I haven't used the 1/2 so dot get it. It was like $8-$10 each for the 25 feet. Defintely cheap and looks good, good protection, and is just like what chase and rywire use.

 

sweet thanks

 

I've been too lazy to update this thread. Got some stuff in the mail, some stuff ordered, and some work done!

Purchase updates:
Ordered:
-Evercoat metal glaze (smooth everything out)
-2 cans of aluminum colored spray paint for engine/trans
-Some stickers
-Password:JDM green radiator stay

Recieved:
-ARP head studs
-Stage 2 Competition clutch kit (thanks Trustdestruction)
-Exedy slave cylinder (didn't need it but was cheap and looks better)

Progress updates:
-I have the entire drivers side tuck DONE! My fuse box will be inside the glove box, the wires will go to the glove box perfectly. The wires for headlights and such were retucked, since my fuse box was still originaly there I just ran the wires under the fuse box, but with that gone they had to be redone. They now go through the door rubber thing like the other side.
-I am not going to weld on the firewall. I'm instead going to use oem plugs, I honestly think the plugs look really good anyway, and welding the firewall scares me.
-Still have to finish up more welding, have some of the passenger strut tower done.
-I need to figure out what I am going to do about my brake fluid level sensor wires and the wires going to the wipers, they need to be relocated. And the harness plug needs to be moved, it is on the passenger side and I need to get it to the middle of the cabin, probably just extend all the wires.
-After those problems are sorted out, my wiring will be completely done, will just need to cut a hole and find some sort of grommet for the main harness to go through
-Ecu will probably just be by the passenger feet or I will figure out some way to have it hang in about, tried to see if it would fit in the glove box with the fuse box, but they don't fit in there together.

Here's some pictures

Competition clutch and ARP studs

Drivers side tucked

Drivers side completely empty!

Wires reran through the door

Blower and what not all bolted back in, this is how my harness will be ran so that it can plug in the fuse box in the glove box.

Exedy slave cylinder.



P.S. I took all these photos with my iPhone, easier than grabbing the camera, and I am naturally shakey so some of the pictures are a lil blurry and what not, sorry!