Yea it's a much higher quality bondo, not cheap either. The quart (I think) was like $30.

Putting my new 195/50 on my rims tomorrow. Bought the tires off a friend who used em for maybe a month in the summer so they are like new. I did put one on today to see how the stretch is, it's stretched but not insane. I will get pictures of it tomorrow. Beading these tires is a pain, have to use our air explosion tool thing to get it to bead, just forces a ton of air in to the tire and is stupid loud.

Also decided on a machine shop. Talked to a couple guys a work and they all had good things to say. The one guy has an 8 second dragster and it's where he takes his stuff for work, and a lot of the machining we need at work gets sent there. I'm looking at $180 to have all 4 cylinders bored and honed. I think it was 50 to polish my crank. I think I'm going to have them set all my ring gaps for me. The broken tranny bolt removal will be like $25. And to mill my head would be the typical $40. So I'd like to take my stuff there next week and have it done. Need to order up my bearnings and gaskets and rods and get going on this!

And the delta 272-2 cam is only $165 + freight shipping fees, not bad for a good cam. They say it might not run well enough on a stock ecu at idle to pass emissions. Soooooo I need another y8 cam. One to run for break in, other to send out for regrind. Someone hook me up

 

Wow.. prices sound good on the engine work.

Wish I still had a stock cam I could send you, but the one I had sitting in my garage was rained on (hole in the roof) and rusted out badly.

As for the higher quality bondo stuff.... I just smear that on, make it smooth, sand and paint? Nothing else? If so, I don't see why I am not using this stuff!

 

Yea the metalglaze is that easy. Sands off easy too, really good product.

Took my bare block to the machine shop today. When taking my motor apart, some of the bearings looked pretty nasty. I think it was the #4 main bearing was worn worse than the others and starting to show whatever the brown material of the bearing is. And the #4 rod bearing showed signs of getting really hot on the backside of the bearing. Probably from the time that my oil level somehow got to the bottom of the dipstick. But I dropped the block and head off.

Getting block bored to 75.5
Piston to wall gap is going to be .0035" (supertech says minimum .0023")

They are going to set my ring gaps, I requested:
Top ring: .017"
Second ring: .020"
Oil rings: .020"

And they are most likely timeserting the trans bolt that broke off in the block. And also milling the head flat.

I should get it all back in about a week they said. In the mean time I'm going to:
-Port the oil pump
-Ordering eagle rods and acl bearings as I type
-Hopefully have my bay ready for paint

Im just about finished tucking my friends ef, once I get to my comp I can post some pics (on my iPhone typing this). His is the car in building the n/a budget built mini me. We took the head off the a6 to find that coolant had been sitting in the cylinders and did a little rusting. Nothing a quick hone can't fix.

 

So, I'm gonna beat this thing dead... this metal glaze stuff, I can use it to smooth out that gross looking seam sealer junk in the engine bay? Can I use it to fill random holes in the engine bay? I know I should weld them, but I have zero welding experience, I have no intention of ever needing to weld stuff, and I, nor any of my friends have a welder.

Let me know if you want to just start PMing, unless you don't mind me clogging up your project thread

 

Grind/scrape the sealer off and you can put the Metalglaze over the seams. I welded the seams for ridgidity, but they aren't welded from the factory so it's fine the way they are. Personally I wouldn't put it right over the holes, it'd probably work but the sealer would probably just fall through when you sand it smooth. If you go to harbor freight and buy their cheapest flux core welder ($90 I think), to to like home depot and buy a spool of miller wire for it since the stuff it comes with is trash, you can weld the holes easy. Welding is really easy when looks and structural necessities isn't needed. The easiest way to shave with a cheap welder or no skill is to stick the head of a roofing nail or somethin in the hole, weld the head to the hole, and then just cut the nail end off. It's easier to do it that way since its like welding up a small gap/hole rather than filling a big hole. Welding is really easy and just takes some practice. I decided I'm going to go back to school for welding after I finish my automotive degree thing this year. There's no money working on cars for a living, and welding makes good money. And welding and working on cars is badass money on the side too.

 

Still waiting to get my block back. Going to stop in Monday and see where it's at. I should be getting all my oem stuff Monday. Supertech valve springs are coming mid week. All I have left to order isssss:

-some sort of intake manifold
-flywheel, haven't decided what yet
-and clutch, I decided on a Competition stage 4, 6 puck. Should hold my power and by relatively daily driveable, I hope

Just picked up a wastegate today. 38mm tial, silver, it's the f38, got it for $100 which is a deal. Looked it over well and it is the real deal, not a knock off!

 

Oem parts showed up at our dealership today but I'm off so I'll pick it all up tomorrow. Also just bought a skunk2 intake manifold off a guy on Honda tech. He will be shipping it tomorrow. Paid 185 for the manifold, the bolt on iat sensor, hes going to leave the fuel rail bolts and throttle cable bracket on, and a Hondata thermal intake gasket. Selling the gasket to my friend for 25, so basically getting the manifold for 160. Good price to me. So all that's left for this thing to drive is the clutch.

Also should be picking up an ex/y8 tranny tonight. I've been trying to setup a time to meet with this guy since i sold something to him in December lol. Trading my gsr read sway bar, d brackets, bushings, and $40 for the trans. From what I've seen my dx tranny is still too long even for 300+ to the wheels. So basically 100 worth of cash and parts for it. It's been sitting outside so I'm going to take it to work and open it up and make sure everything looks okay.

 

Well, went and got the trans. Guy gave it to me for free... We both assumed its trashed. It had been sitting outside for years. I just got home and had to pour some water out of it. I'm going to open it up tomorrow and see how the internals are and if it's salvageable. Itll need bearings at the minimum, which are pretty pricey. I don't know how the gears would react to the water, I was able to move the shifter so the shift forks were somewhat moving. Once it's open tomorrow I'll take some pics.

Stopped in at the machine shop today, block and head will be done tomorrow. I'm going to go pick it up Wednesday. They were honing it when I walked in. So hopefully ill have the engine ready to go in not this weekend but the weekend after, so I need to hustle on my bay.

Going to order my clutch and flywheel tonight, only thing I need for the car to be back together. Competition stage 4 6 puck is what I'm going with, just need to decide on a flywheel. I want something around 12 lbs, idk what brand though.

 

Went and picked up my block and head today. Cost me just under $300 for all the work done, a shirt, and assembly lube. They did:

-Bored and honed block so that piston to wall clearance was .0035" all the way across
-Set piston ring gaps : .0017", .0019", .0030 (I think)
-Put a time sert in where the tranny bolt snapped
-Milled the head flat, only had to take a fwe thousandths off

I just need to pick up some Plastigauge and hope everything specs out with the ACL's.

Bought a valve lapping tool and lapping compoud so I can relap all my valves for optimum sealing without a valve job. Also got my Supertech valve springs to go in.

Completely tore down the y8 trans I got for free. Unbelievably this trans is in really good condition, I can't find anything wrong. Bearings are fine, diff is fine, only had one thing making it hard to shift. There was a grape sized nut jammed by the shift rod, a tree was attempting to grow in the tranny apparently lol. Cleaning out the whole trans with brake cleaner at work tomorrow and asking another tech that has a hell of a lot more experience than me if he gives the trans a green light too. I will bring pictures tomrorow, just on my phone and I don't feel like plugging it in.

 

Hey scott what are your HP goals for this set up?
JFK78 (im assuming you know who he is lol) for his 500+ HP set up he went with .018 for top and .020 for bottom.
I was planning on going with .014 TOP and .016 BOTTOM. for 300+ HP
And with .0025 for P2W.

Just curious how you came up with your clearences.