zerojett's EF Project
#141
If you get Hondata s300 installed and properly tuned you won't need to have two separate tunes. s300 will compensate for the weather. If you were really worried about cold temps there is an optional block warmer that you can install too.
#142
Pretty pictures. Clean car!
Anyways, I got my buddy to start the exhaust on my car. I'll have spent 150 on this exhaust so far.
While he got started, I put in my prelude wheel!
Here is a pic of my battery box. I never showed it before. Looks like crap but it works well.
Stores around here quit carrying cherry bomb! Eff. Thrush it is.
Working hard.
I also picked up these calipers for my 10.5 rotor upgrade. I still need to find a matching master cylinder however! Da doesn't bolt up to my brake booster.
I definitely need hondata if i plan on boosting. I might be grabbing a cb7 to fix up instead. 2 door ex-r! We'll see.
That's all for now!
Last edited by zerojett; 10-17-2012 at 11:32 AM.
#144
Well, nobody else is updating anything.
I hope Sandy hasn't wreaked too much damage for you guys.
Well, this is what I woke up to. The snow is still falling.
Drat. Those All-Seasons just won't do... Back to ye olde 14's.
It's FWD drifting season btw.
I hope Sandy hasn't wreaked too much damage for you guys.
Well, this is what I woke up to. The snow is still falling.
Drat. Those All-Seasons just won't do... Back to ye olde 14's.
It's FWD drifting season btw.
#146
Yeah, so, shoe polish doesn't work for dyeing leather steering wheels.
I found some old leather shoe dye under my sink that did the trick though... Just need another application of black... this was the trial.
The method that works:
Clean the leather with acetone. Clean it very very much.
Place newspaper in the surrounding area... the dye will dye everything.
Place the center of the steering wheel on a plastic container or something. Tin can. Anything.
Apply dye with a foam brush. Apply more when you see the dye dry. Many many coats. Let it sit for a half hour after you're satisfied with the amount of coats.
Note: this wheel used to say race in the middle. It doesn't anymore, the acetone took off the paint. Be careful. It won't remove the black finish though.
Fill a sink with hot water. Put a cup or 2 of acetone in the water and give the wheel a soak. Pull it out and rub it vigorously with paper towel. The dye should stay and not rub off on your hands or paper towel after a while.
I think this was before I gave it a bath in acetone...
Go-kart! Weeeeoooooo!!!!
#148
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WELL.... IT'S F*KIN COLD OUT. I'm trying to price out my B16 rebuild... going for a stock bottom end, boosting on 10.3:1 compression lol. Should be fun. Boost is still a long ways off sadly... gotta get the B going first!
Research has told me this: purchase ITR intake springs, use the b16 intake springs on the exhaust side (I might just buy new ones so I'd probably just get the ITR exhaust valve springs too)
ITR valves
OEM valve seals
ITR LMAs
Anything other than OEM cam seal
OEM head gasket
ARP rod bolts, head studs
Hastings rings
ACL race bearings
plus a full seal kit (or piece together an oem kit) and other odds and ends but that's the majority of it... should be around $1200 plus machine work... I'm worried that all the parts for the head weren't labeled as they were removed. the cams and holders were taken off before I bought it.
Probably gotta track down a new oil pan as this pan has 2 fittings added rather poorly. Fun!
Picked up these beauties for $50. New winter rims? Heck yes.
I fell in love with them ever since I saw a thread about them on HT. Heh.