Cold intake brands etc
That's exactly what i thought, because it install to the engine.. not tranny.
But on every intake i bring up except the 80+26 one, it says (manual only) so just wondering if anyone can verify if this can be used for auto also?
But on every intake i bring up except the 80+26 one, it says (manual only) so just wondering if anyone can verify if this can be used for auto also?
It could be possible that the AT gets in the way. That's why it seems there is more tubing for the AT then the MT.
Do a quick search for it you might find your answer. 80 bucks is still cheaper then the K&N or AEM one so I wouldn't complain to much. No one said modding was cheap especially at the pursuit for more power.
Do a quick search for it you might find your answer. 80 bucks is still cheaper then the K&N or AEM one so I wouldn't complain to much. No one said modding was cheap especially at the pursuit for more power.
Last edited by xsteinbachx; Jan 29, 2009 at 07:45 AM.
i dont think there is a difference between the auto and manual trans intake. for a cold air intake that's about the right price for an ebay kit. a decent name brand one would run you at least 150-200. get the ebay kit and a quality name brand filter if you want to save money
You dont need to get a k&n or aem filter for cheapbay intakes. I have used the cheapbay filters my 89 accord, 04 sentra ser and my 98 civic hx. I have never had any problems, I do oil them with k&n filter oil to trap more dirt though. And yeah you will see the same gains with the ebay intakes as you would with a name brand so save your money. Just look at a few before you order from ebay.
I'd like to see dyno proof* of an ebay intake with a good name-brand filter decreasing power. When I see hard proof, I'll believe it.
*dyno proof means several runs both with the intake and with the stock intake, switching back and forth (something like 2 runs with the stock, 1 run with the intake, 1 run with the stock, 2 runs with the intake, etc), allowing the car to cool between each run.
*dyno proof means several runs both with the intake and with the stock intake, switching back and forth (something like 2 runs with the stock, 1 run with the intake, 1 run with the stock, 2 runs with the intake, etc), allowing the car to cool between each run.


