ok reseting and i will continue after i paint out a garage.

 

Ok so codes cleared, ran great for a day but idle was still high...not 3k high (yet but soon) but way better than it was. I drove around for like 3 hours and it ran great, no codes returned.
So driving it today, car is all warmed up driving great, i pull into the store to grab some groceries..goto start the car it putters and dies. I start again its running rough..i have to floor it to get it to run then it shoots up to 3 k rpm putting into gear kills it. I check the LED flasher i get codes
12 = Exhaust gas recirculation system
16 = fuel injectors
So i bought an EGR gasket, im gonna pull it, check it out see if its stuck or something.
Fuel injectors..could that be my high idle culprit???? my experience with them on other vehicles is either poor performance from clogged or a dead cylinder completely clogged. I think i read somewere in here before about cracked injector causing air leaks..if anyone has had experience in this erea any info would be much appreciated.

 

im not 100% sure on this but..when i suck on the EGR valve i can run out of breath, its like it has a hole in the diaphram, is that how its supposed to be?

 

Painter.. adjust you throttle cable. I went to the same motion as you sometime ago but kept driving it for years, cuz doesn't affect the drivability. It was bouncing from 1200 - 1500+

One day i pull on the gas pedal and notice that the idle drop (<< try this), so i loosen the cable a bit at the throttle (adjustment nut) and now idle perfect and been idling 750-800 since.

 

ugh this is just insane..i have never in my life delt with a better peice of ****! I have replaced over 400 in parts and nothing i do changes this stupid idle from getting stuck. Its random nothing i can do makes it happen it just does when it feels like it. Most of the time it runs fine, if i shut it off then try to restart it it wont start. about 4 mins later it might start, if it does the idle screams to near 3k..driving around doesnt do anything to change it, but if i let it sit an hour it will start fine and purr like a kitten. No smoke, no rough idle, passes emissions..idles and accelerates smooth.
Its not the main relay i replaced it.
its not the IACV valve i replaced it.
The cable i have adjusted loose i even went to the wrecking yard and looked at a few to reference the typical slack most of the motors had.
The idle screw does nothing.
Adjusting timeing does NOTHING
Ive replaced EVERY hose, the PCV, the Air intake sensor<== i broke it removing the PCV lol, the intake gasket, the throttle body gasket, i have purged the coolant of air 4 times (i.e the car guy technic)
I got one thing left to try..the throttle cable its self, ill just replace it then im gonna burn this ****ing peice of **** to the ground and accept defeat.
Clearing all codes leave the EGR (12 flashes) still going, i cant affor a new one, been to 5 wrecking yards trying to find one and EBAy has 0 for my model
*loads shotgun*

 

When it is idling too high, check that the cable is slack and the linkage is all the way to the idle position. If not, the cable is sticky and there's your problem.

Just replacing stuff on a whim is always frustrating and expensive. Diagnose first.

 

Diagnosing is what ive been doing. Going by the readers advise here, troubleshooting from the book..reading the LCD trouble codes.
Ive adjusted the cable several times. Anymore slack and using the gas pedal wont matter anymore.
Last trouble shooting by the book for high idle after warmup - probable cause is coolant temperature sensor.
The car never overheats, and cold starts fine so hopefully this will fix it. Just frustrating it runs so well otherwise, hard to belive its just this bad only at operating temp.

 

as soon as the title arrives this thing is LONG GONE

 

So i still have this car..runs so good other than the stupid idle circut..what could be causing all this? I have now replaced the leaking EGR valve and both injectors and transmision gear selector switch (this was causing my key to be stuck in the ignition)
I replaced the IACV valve, gues what..it still has the hunting idle issue when cold now. Warm it wont do it, if i unlpug the electrical connector to the IACV, it rises and falls idle real fast.
Still has a high idle, but now its around 2k cold start, 1300-1400 warm and 1100 in drive (auto) after driving about 30 mins if i have the headlights on and heater on its about 900 in drive.
I have burped the coolant like 6 times now..Temp turned to full hot, i opened the little release pepcock on the thermostat, poured fluid till it has a solid stream, then ran the engine 2400 rpm till the fan came on 3 times to make sure it has no air in the coolant.
Checked and replaced various vacuum lines, the idle circut just drives me insane.
I want to sell it but no one would buy it like this..and if i could just get it figured out i would most likely keep it.

*PS i took this to a mechanic to look at it..he said the IACV was bad..i mentioned i allready replaced that unit. So he charged me 300$ and said i dont know what to tell you then. So i asked him what would he do if he replaced it and it still did this?
"Sell tthe car to someone else and let it be thier problem...."
what a doucebag.